Recent content by Antz81

The motor needs to be grounded as suggested above. The motor has two windings one for up and one for down. The switch supplies +12v to either winding depending on the desired direction of travel. On a side note it is possible that the slow movement is caused by the switch itself.

Not sure if GTR1999 still looks in on this forum but he may know. He does a lot of work with C3 diffs. Even if he doesn't watch this forum he will still likely respond if you PM him. He is still active on other forums. Why are you wanting to convert to 12 bolt?

Yes the change to radial tires required a higher pressure. It seems when radials were first fitted they recommended a lower pressure but this only lasted a few years.

The recommended pressure for an '81 is 35psi front and rear. some people prefer lower but very few like them as low as the OP's manual recommends regardless of what year they have.

Since he can get the pump to run and his tests indicate that either the relay or the oil pressure switch should be starting it this is what i would check. Just because its running doesn't mean its pumping.

Seems the connections onto the circuit board are to blame for my problem. Soldered them up so they don't move and after that I could not get it to buzz without turning the lights on. I'll have to keep an eye on it but it seems like a good start.

Went to start My Vette and the battery was flat, connected the charger and the buzzer was going traced it to the same unit as the seatbelt warning buzzer. Interesting to note that giving it a little shake also stopped the buzzer. Have removed it for now and noted the connections onto the circuit...

I would agree if he was talking about turn signals. But as for the dash lights the load should make no difference. I suspect a faulty headlight switch or buzzer module. I need to check mine as I also have the same problem. Mine has also only just started, and I also Have LED dash lights (and...

All seems better now. Flushed the coolant and now only seeing about 205 for the coolant, oil temps are not quite as high as they were but take longer to get there and drop faster.

All Air dams are in place. I may give the cooling system a flush just to be sure. (Its probably due for one anyway)

I don't think i have a problem but want to be sure. I've noticed my temps seem to be a lot higher than normal since changing the ratio in my diff from 2.72 to 3.36. Before my coolant temp would never go over 200 but now regularly goes up to around 220, and the oil temp which would never go over...

Since you have an 87 you might want to try posting in the C4 forum and not on a post 15 years ago

I went with a 330lb/in spring on mine and I sometimes wonder if i should have gone for a stiffer spring. Vansteel do a 400lb/in spring. (they recommend it for racing but whats the fun is only using it for that?) As others have said you will want to make sure you have appropriate shocks for this...

IIRC Service manual says no more than .008" but most people like to keep it below .003"

Unless you're looking for something that looks original, which I suspect you're not, then go with the one piece. It'll last a lot longer.