Recent content by forrest

Before you go spending money, try this First off i have found that these are not parking brakes that just pull on the Handle. you need to step on the the brake pedal and Then pull the Ratchet. When I was doing Vehicle Inspections in NJ we had a lot of cars failing until this procedure was done...

I agree some of the relays could be stuck or hot wired, but also you may have a faulty A/C switch see if when you unplug some of the A/C switches if the fans will shut off. if they do let the car run but monitor the Coolant and see if the fans will kick on at there proper temp. But definitely...

There is no need for hammers, wrenches of channel locks. with a small to medium screwdriver pry up the push button it should slide off the push shaft with a little retainer (sometimes left behind on shaft or in button) use a small set of snap ring pliers remove the ring. Now granted I will say...

The old line a picture is worth a 1000 words would help, and I agree No road time until this is sorted out

Their not to hard to remove and replace, as a lot of above points out. you will need some tools like a large torx socket for removing the seat belt mounts from "B" pillar the whole trim around the B pillar doesn't need come off just enough to get at the mounting bolts Removing Trim does make the...

The rear brackets I do believe that they are Available threw some of the parts vendors, but have you tried to put in a Helicoil? you drill out the threads to a certain size depending on the original thread you want to achieve tap the drilled out bracket with the kit supplied tap and Screw in a...

Again I resubmit if your ground leg is lighting up a test light connected from a good ground source and ground on Distributor/coil your ground (Black wire bottom middle of page) needs help or a redundant ground.

if you are reading 12 volts on a connected ground it's bad. so chase and reestablish it. now a volt meter doesn't take a lot to give a full reading if you take a plain old test light and do the same test does it light up bright? if it does that is a complete open.

Shooting from memory of something I have not worked on for 20 years, you should have a about a 10 gauge with a small Eyelet (crank request) goes to a small stud. A main battery cable with aligning tab that goes to starter stud with I cant remember if 1 or 2 smaller gauge wires bolted on top of...

I should have said clean off wipe on a clean T-shirt, if the chip has something on it not allowing it to read right it will say invalid code and not allow the car to start.

are you saying that the radio, dash, and most functions are there but no crack(starter wont move) I personally would look at all power connections starter Leeds, including the crank request wire on the starter and grounds. You would be surprised how little it takes at a main power supply to not...

The gasket is there check min. 2.15 and 4.10 As for the debate for where #1 should be Habit put it L. front by the Plenum cover screw the wire retainer clamp on top of Distributor confirms it in my book, the factory ones plug wires numbers are molded into it.

Here a link from a past forum with a Similar complaint granted it is for a 89 but I think the systems are Marginally close enough for some trouble shooting. Sorry it came from another forum but lets face we all cruise the other ones, and I didnt even realize it until I linked it from Google...

I had same problem with my 93 it went away for weeks than out of nowhere it returned it's some times is caused by the door closing a bit to far or a bit of play in the latch, when mine returned I readjusted the plunger and temporally put a small "O" ring from a power washer kit around the little...

If what I have suggested fails I have a couple of other things to try or look at