True enough, replacing the glass and rubber isn't a trivial job, but neither is it an impossible job for the DIYer. I did it, and if I can do it, anyone with a reasonable amount of patience can, too. In fact, if faced with a $2200 price tag for someone else to do the work, I'd darn sure give...
I just looked up a VR605 and it appears to be a mechanical VR, just like the original one for your car. I'd suggest trying to adjust the regulated Voltage per the instructions in contemporary shop manuals.
Your car is a fuelie, right? If so, that fuel injection unit will love you for anything...
You sort of imply that the aftermarket VR on your car might be solid state. Can you remove the cover? If so, do you see any obvious adjustments? If it is adjustable, I see no reason to replace it. Just adjust the output Voltage to something more appropriate..... say around 14.3 to 14.5...
Tom, just found this information you posted eons ago. This is the first I've read of these heads, all '59 dated, being produced in the '60s. When in the '60s were they made? How did you learn this fact?
Here is an example of one such head:
Jim
This advice is spot on.
You can mitigate the percolation problem somewhat by modifying your driving habit, however.
If you start driving as soon as the engine hot starts, fuel pressure in the nozzle lines will rise high enough to instantly stop the percolation. The engine will immediately...
The worth of the radiator is something each purchaser would have to decide for her/himself. If you want a radiator that looks like and works as well as an original Harrison, then DeWitt is the only game in town.
Jim
You boys paid too much fer them fancy paint jobbies.
My paint-delete '59 cost me $400 in 1969 dollars.
Sold it for $525. Whooo-eeee didn't I make a killin'!
Jim
I'm jealous. Your '59 looked a whole lot better than my first Corvette, also a '59. I bought mine in the spring of '69:
The heart of the beast (note the Jardine Tri-Y headers):
Ya gotta love the "office" and the Rat Fink shifter.
Would you believe this POS would do the quarter in...
If the FI unit is at fault, the most probable cause is a defective Cranking Signal Valve. The most common failure of these is for them to fail open which will let the engine start, but it will run excessively rich. However, I've also seen them fail closed and extremely difficult cold starting...
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