Recent content by TimAT

I may be too late to the party, but check the fuse for the choke heater. And then the choke heater relay. The alternator plug has 2 wires- a small brown one and a larger red one. The brown wire excites the alternator field to start it charging. And it gets power from the choke heater relay. GM's...

The iron midplate is not a bad idea- if the trans has been used hard in it's life the rear bearing retainer will tend to beat the groove for the retainer in the aluminum plate. Makes it not fit like it should. Unless the side cover is worn to the point the shift fork shafts are loose, the roller...

Easy test for a fuel gauge. (or the temp or oil pressure gauges). Disconnect the wire from the sender and put a 12v test light between the lead and a good ground. Turn the key on to power the gauges. The test light should glow and the gauge should read about 1/2 scale. Not 100% accurate for...

I agree with Mikey- get your Q-jet rebuilt by someone that KNOWS what they are doing and does not use cobbled up parts.

One of the recommended frame mods in the old Chevrolet Power book was to weld a plate over that large hole. Along with that, plating over the small holes and full length welds on the frame rails. All in the name of reducing the flex. There are also a half dozen plates to weld in and around the...

I don't speak or read any Italian- but looking at the post, he's got an 81 and he needs a wiring diagram.. Milo- :welcome

You might also try using AC Delco R45TSX plugs- same heat range, just the "X" denotes extended tip. Gets the end of the plug out into the chamber a little more and may help burn off the goo.

A safer way to force a cylinder to drop out with an HEI is to use a sharp point testlight. Ground the lead on the light and stab each wire at the cap. - 2 problems with this- it will kill the light bulb, and it will also leave a hole in the wire that moisture will get into and fail the wires...

Check the primary wire from the distributor to the coil, make sure the breaker plate is well grounded inside the distributor. Every time the ignition advances the breaker plate moves and can break those connections. Past that, it's back to the carb.

I understand the $$ function of selling these cars overseas. It still pains me to see them shipped out of the country. :ugh

Don't forget to check the Torrington bearings-- Use a big socket or piece of pipe, load them up a little and turn. If you feel ANY roughness, now is the time to replace.

My 69 has a short ground cable from the battery to the frame, and then another short cable from the right frame motor mount stand to the block. Check both of those for a good connection to the frame- and by good, I mean a star washer between the cable end and the frame- on a clean shiny spot...

You will get better results (ie., performance) by matching the springs to the cam. There are so many different specs for springs- installed height, seat pressure, rate, and coil bind that it's near impossible to guess. Many cams and lifters have been wiped with the wrong springs too. I've...

No need to remove the distributor- just take the cap off. Leave the wires on it, just unlatch and set it off to the front or side- where ever it wants to go. Plenty of clearance that way. I have a long extension- 3/8 male on one end and 1/2 female on the other. I use a 9/16 impact wobble socket...

It may be slow because (in the USA) winter seems to have a death grip on just about all of us. Too daggone cold to work on anything, much less get it out and drive around. I'm n Dallas right now- It SNOWED his morning. Sure was fun watching the traffic