One back fire thru the carb is all it'll take to produce this result. :eek: Burned right thru the foam. Get a metal lid on those air filters. I imagine those K&N extreme lids could produce similar results.
The pipes I got from a forum member in Fla. They're '69 originals, they're far from perfect and the pictures hide a lot.
The installation wasn't that difficult. I needed to get a special bolt kit to attach the covers to the car in place of the rocker molding. That required drilling new...
What he said. The LS6 was the highest HP/TQ rate '70's vette. :gap I'd love to own one and used the LS6 pistons, aluminum heads and rock crusher in my rebuild.
For all you HP addicts. Thanks Allcoupedup from C1-C2 for hosting. It's idling about 850-900 and reving to about 4,500rpm.
http://65corvette.nonethewiser.net/posts/sounds/BB%20idling%20@900%20reving%20to%204%20500.mpg
I understand the diagram Bob. I think after this little discussion that, I either have the wrong adapter ot that my wiring is already able to accomidate a newer alternator.
The basic problem is that my present rectangular alternator plug should plug into the new adapter. I can't because the...
I went by Bob's post in this thread. http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55558
Item #VAK6368SI
Maybe it's an SI? Why is there still a regulator though?
How can I tell which it is? Here's a pic from a few months ago. It's a 42-43A alternator and the one I have now is a 63A. Other than that thy are identical. There is a regulator on the drivers side.
I got the alternator adapter from Lectric Limited, but their 2 prong end is the same as the 2 prong end I already have feeding my alternator? How'd you get this to work. There's no way I can plug my current 2 prong plug into their adapter??? The adapter end is quite small and squarish not...
Right off my SB. I bought these new from GM only 3 years ago. I coated them with POR-15 manifold paint. They could use another coat. I paid about $120ea for them. There's a 2 inch spacer($25) on the passenger side eliminating the need for a heat riser. The manifold studs are SS($19) and in the...
Concensus was that the fans were drawing too many amps away from the ignition. Causing it to sputter and sometimes kill the engine when the fans "triggered" on. I had to change the power source of the fans to the big mumbo on the starter for now. May change that in the future.
I think I got the wiring right this time guys, check it out. I re-wired the dist (correctly this time) and relocated the rotor based on TDC. End result? It runs great. Took it down the street (dead-end) and it didn't die or sputter. Got it timed to about 16+. Thanks for your tips and discerning...
I lowered the front about an inch....don't think I can go ANY lower. Rear is about 27inches, front @ 26.5. AIM listes the spec's at 27-28" for both the F/R, so it's really no that much lower.
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