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which one do you need? feed, crossover or return?

powdercoating will not stick properly unless you have the frame phosphated (either iron or zinc, there are drawbacks and benefits to both systems, iron is easier as it coats and cleans, zinc requires separate cleaning) before coating.

a leaking exhaust upstream of the oxygen sensor ()near cat) will create a false lean signal, that may very well be the cause of the overly rich situation.

this..been my summer, winter fall and spring project for the last 6 years:

1:1 is not overdriven, it's a direct drive ratio.

what happened to the rear fenders?

a timing chain will always have slack but too much slack is not good, the timing will be erratic with it. They sure snake around like crazy on a running motor even if the chain is tight so imagine what happens if you have a sloppy chain. Distribution sets are cheap, get a fresh one while you are...

how are you breaking it in? No need to rev the snot out of it but certainly don't baby the engine, focus on building cyl. pressure by doing WOT acceleration from low revs to about 4000 rpm and then engine braking in a low gear @ high speed (easier done w/ manual than auto), this builds cyl...

isn't that Micheal Monthief..errr Montrief ?

Dot 5.1 is NOT a silicone based fluid, it's a polyethylene glycol based one, just like 3 &4. These are all hygroscopic and will mess up your paint job. However there are issues w/ the silicone DOT5 fluid also. It's more compressible resulting in a spongier pedal and it can be hard to bleed. Also...

your driveshaft probably has 1310 joints, I would upgrade to a 1330 or 1350. You'll need a new driveshaft (2,5 or larger) and a new pinion yoke and slip yoke.

Be sure you know what you are doing when setting up a diff for a new ring & pinion gear, to do the job properly you need a depth gauge, a micrometer, a dial gauge, a case spreader, bearing puller, press, cutting compound and some homemade tools for holding the stub axles, the pinion and...

Why not? It will get plenty warm there, the stock O2 sensor is all the way back in front of the cat and it's the cat con that provides most of the heat for the sensor there. A heated O2 will result in a somewhat faster closed loop engagement but it should be hot enough in the collector area...

exactly, I myself would swap them so they face the right way, IMO it also "looks" wrong the other way around, like having sawblades (or any C4 wheel) the wrong way around (which also affects brake cooling) Did you shim and dial them all out yet?

Actually you read that wrong, the slots matter but the vanes are much more important and should be checked first. The slots will work best if they sweep back against the direction of rotation but the vanes will really mess up the coolig if installed wrong. Most C3 rotors however are straight...

That top is just very thin stamped steel pieces spot welded together, you can bend it by hand using some brite force. Here it is, just"stamped pieces in a "U" profile, and the t-bar is even worse...it's just 2 section of steel wedged together. Something like this will keep you from...

Those bolt in things won't do a lot for stiffness or roll protection, being that they bolt to the birdcage. The best is a weld in 4 point roll bar.

Autopower, Jegs, Alston, S&W ..most of them sell weld in roll bar kits

I do everything myself, and not just the vette... I almost completely built my car from scratch, not just bolting stuff on but designing and building almost everything, suspension,s teering, braking, engine...you name it, I probably did it on this car.

the cone shape always goes between the body and the frame, the puck goes on the other side. The wide side of the cone goes on the body side, the narrow side on the frame. On the # 1 body mount the cone goes on top and the puck under the frame. the narrow side of the cone goes on the frame...