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You can't get them in with the engine in the car. The engine has to come out to remove or install them. This is what I mean. That's nuts. That's headers. The secondary consequences were just enormous. And you can't wear sneakers because the heat'll melt your rubber soles. Don't go on...

I hate headers. I had them on my '62, and I spent more time screwing around with fixing header problems than with the rest of the car that needed a complete restoration. Nothing but constant work. I'm told they're better now, but I'm not sure I believe it. If you're determined to proceed...

1. Check the archives over at the NCRS Technical Board and Corvette Forum. There's been a fair amount of discussion on this over there. 2. Put the glue on with a brush and sparingly at that. Watched an old timer do this at a Corvette resto shop. He used very little glue. Don't forget the...

I used 3M spray adhesive when I installed my dash pad. Just had the body painted in lacquer. Dash pad, then the windshield, then the interior. Didn't mask, because I figured I'd just wipe off any overspray. Figured I could get to the overspray glue quick and wipe it off before it dried...

Save your money. You don't need to do this. It won't make the car run any better. The improvements people have seen are because the work done corrected other things. If your distributor needs work, the Pertronix won't fix it. Although when you install the Pertronix, you'll probably do the...

How'd you do the U-joint? The old squeeze in a bench vise way? That's how I always did them. One day I had a machine shop do them. When the owner was giving me back the driveshaft, he proudly showed me how easily they moved. I asked him if that was important, because with my bench vise...

I'm an attorney. Spent 10 years as a insurance company claims adjuster, and then 4 years after law school representing insurance companies. JohnZ is 100% correct.

You're in Richmond? You realize that Zip is in Richmond. Don't know if they have the correct piece. But they are a major old Corvette parts supplier. (What I'd give to be able to drive over someplace and order parts for my C1 over the counter.)

One More Thing If you go to a car show in Massachusetts, you'll find that most of the cars that qualify do not have antique plates. Some do. Maybe 10%-20%.

Go to the following url to get the form to get antique plates in Massachusetts. The form also gives you the restrictions that these plates impose. http://www.state.ma.us/rmv/forms/20132.pdf The restrictions are you are only supposed to drive the car to parades, club functions, shows, etc...

The official Chevrolet VIN tag (the one the RMV cares about) on a '61 is spot welded on that portion of the steering column in the engine compartment. If yours is still there, try to secure it so it doesn't fall off. The spot welds are weak. I put a radiator clamp around mine. Some people...

I just insured with Hagerty. Agreed value of $30K. $100/300/50 liability. $268/year. The insurance company is Glens Falls.

Don't believe you can bench test a generator. How would you turn the pulley a few thousand rpms? It's got to be hooked up to a voltage regulator too. Years ago, auto parts stores used to have generator/alternator tester machines. You could bring in your suspect generator or alternator, and...

I did this on my '62. Looks great. But won't fool any judges. You realize that the reverse lockout is fake. Looks real, but won't prevent you from shifting into reverse. This isn't a problem with Hurst shifters. When you buy the boot, buy a stock one for C1s, not one for a Hurst. The...

It's easy to convert from a generator to a single wire alternator. Search the Internet and hot-rod places. This has been common since the 60s. To make it even easier, you want to get one of those alternators with the built in regulator so that you can do what is called the "single wire"...

Sorry, gotta take the intake off. The intake is bolted to the head. You couldn't remove the head without taking the intake off first

Yes. All this stuff, except for the shifter, is still for sale.

My car is a '62. Built December 20, 1961. It should take a 3269S, dated anytime in 1961.

Funny you should mention that. That's exactly what I'm doing this Winter. One of my Winter projects was to take the air horn (the top half) off a junk 62-65 AFB and mate it with a modern Edelbrock or Carter AFB body (the bottom half). That way, the hybrid carb would fit on my Holley pattern...

3460S AFB carburetor (for ’63 auto trans), dated J2. $300 56-58 hubcap (original, not a repro), perfect except for small zit on spinner. $100 59-62 hubcap, original, poor to fair condition. $50 3779553 cast bell housing (for 61-62 standard trans), perfect. $300 3795397 intake (for ’62 340...