Search results

just run a #6 wire from the single hot post on the alt to the battery. it would be advisable to put a fuse at both ends. one near the alt and one near the battery incase it shorts, keeps you from starting and electrical fire. if your cables to the starter are getting hot during cranking, they...

you said the engine has always run rich. so i would go ahead and do a compression test. you may have washed out your rings' seal on the cylinder walls and are getting oil from that. this will also make your compression drop and increase sooting in the combustion chamber at low rpm. the other...

yep, that's the place i got mine from. very nice guy to deal with as well.

i'm running the spirol baffles and love them. they are actually more quiet than the glasspacks, unless you uncap the center tube. i would highly recommend them if you are going with sidepipes.

look to see if all your pressure plate bolts are tight. a snapped or backed out retaining bolt will allow the spring fingers to go all wonky and tick off the throw-out bearing.

the flow of things is tank, filter, pump, regulator with bypass back to tank and then carb. i put the regulator as close to the carb as possible to keep the fuel as cold as you can until it hits the carb. thid will keep your carb cold and improve meetering consistentancy.

Paul, the pump you have is fine. you need to plumb in a return line between the pump and carb. there are two different types of regulators to control pressure to the carb. the first is a holley design...

the smaller line is the return line to tank. do not use it for for supply! you will need it. depending on what type of fuel pump you have, dictates were to hook it up. if it is a stock style pump, it will be hooked up directly off the pump. if you have an electric or single in single out pump...

Bill, i spent three days on the dyno total. the first 2 1/2 were getting the Holley as good as it will get. the dyno shop had the Demon on a 440 small block and popped it on for ****s and giggles after maximizing the Holley. the difference was pretty amazing on the first pass, and even better...

well both carbs are very similar. the Demon is better because of machining and better castings. it also has removable boosters and the "idle ease" port for tuning cammed motors. i also like the removeable air bleeds and emulsion bleeds for all the circuits on the Demon. Holleys are bare bones...

your voltage regulator is not working. either it's bad or the signal wires are bad. check the voltage coming off the main post to ground, it should be around 14.7 volts for all rpm. rev your motor a little while monitoring, i have seen bad regulators put out perfect numbers at idle and increase...

if you are going for performance, effecientcy and durability i would pony up and get a good converter. B&M's are not very effecient and cause lots of heat. if you want a good converter, it'll cost you $700-800. the cost is a shocker up front, but well worth the money later on. i bought a Yank...

does the motor have aluminum or iron heads?? that will greatly effect the required octane to avoid detonation. i agree more info is needed about the engine combo before getting to serious about direction of re-tuning. the good thing about an L-88 is the cam overlap. your dynamic compression is...

i'm a big fan of adjusting with the engine running. just get an old rocker cover from the junkyard and cut the top out of it. install as usual and start the engine. do not rev the motor or oil will splash all over the place (oil containment is the reason for the modded cover). it is also a good...

auto trannies are the way to go for going fast. R&T has been pulling the wool over peoples' eyes for some time. they do not brake stall autos for good launches in time trials. pretty much they idle cars until the light turns and then hit the gas and let the tranny shift, no power shifting to...

i second the vote for a good ignition, don't use the old stuff. points will limit your performance compaired to a modern CDI ignition. call the builder of the engine and ask what is needed for a cam gear.

the "loss of power" was from from the swap from gross to net ratings for horsepower. the differences in the two systems are so much that there is no way to compete the two except to dyno each engine again with the same parameters. needless to say, the '70's cars got a very bad reputation because...

if it's a stock engine and oil pan, drain it and change filter. add five quarts of oil, start and get pressure up to normal, shut off and measure after 15 minutes. you should be right at the full mark. if not, make a new mark on your stick. the add level will be 3/4 of an inch lower. if you have...

that sleeve is a speedy sleeve. you should not need it as you suspected. it is for "reconditioning" the old balancer to seal. are you planning on running a one piece oil pan gasket?? Felpro makes a nice rubber one that works great. kinda spendy, but reusable.

don't worry about the distributor when setting cam timing. just align your little dots as per the book and set the distributor after the cam is locked to the crank via the timing set. as John said, no need to go high pressure / high volume. you only need 1 psi oil pressure per 10hp. your pump is...