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http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/general-automotive-discussion/94372-im-impressed-amazed.html yeah! its a direct link to a differant thread click the link

yes the damper needs to come off for a cam swap, did you remove BOTH the damper/crank bolt AND the thick washer that holds the damper on the crank snout,that the bolt holds ? if you just removed the bolt and are trying to remove the damper with the washer still in place the problems rather obvious

http://www.jegs.com/i/Proform/778/66514/10002/-1 life is SOOOO MUCH easier if you buy and use the correct tools:upthumbs

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=&item=200259978556 Id like too swap too a 200 amp Alternator on a corvette and this APPEARS to be an option at a good price, BUT on close examination the stock Alternator has one main red wire...

info that might help (before you ask, yeah the LT1 is very similar) L-98 Engine Start Sequence BUY A SHOP MANUAL FOR YOUR CAR AND GET A FUEL PRESSURE TEST GAUGE AND A V.O.M. METER YOULL NEED THEN ALL knowing whats going on and WHY can help...

obviously youll need to verify youve got fuel flow and pressure in the fuel rails before worring about ignition issues http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/FuelSystemDiagnosis.pdf

SHORT ANSWER! STOP BEATING A LONG DEAD HORSE!! don,t get the idea Im against the x-fire system,design, it has potential,Im just against throwing money down a rat hole! sellecting the aftermarket crossram bases matched to a correctly matched cam, better heads and a low restriction exhaust with...

if your in one of the areas where hurricanes are a problem, and need a generator its a great time to add to your shop tools, they build good welders that are also good emergency generators I went thru several hurricanes with a portable back-up generator/welder like this (notice the shop...

Cam Break-in Procedure • Have a high quality service manual available, such as the factory service manual, or the vehicle specific manuals published by Chiltons, Motors, or Haynes. You will need these for the basic information regarding engine disassemble and reassemble along with the torque...

several guys have posted pictures of the DD-2000 results they get (LIKE ABOVE) and Im not all that computer savy, so I need DETAILED STEP BY STEP instruction on how to post a DD-2000 screen from my computer to post it so I can link/or display similar results from my DD-2000 and ENGINE ANALYZER...

many guys have coolant leaks from studs and head bolts,you don,t need that P.I.T.A. guys! Ive YET to have a single stud or bolt leak! its simple! run a tap thru the threads, test screw the clean/dry stud by hand to verify no clearance or binding then ,clean them and dry the threads on the block...

Im running that crane 119661 cam retarded 4 degrees BTW but detonation has not been a problem, remember that the coolant temp, air temps the engine sees, QUENCH distance, type of head gasket and its construction ,ignition advance,plug heat range,piston to bore clearance, exhaust valve seat...

we ALL tend to remember better and learn more from our own and others ,SCREW UPS than when things go flawlessly...if your not occasionally screwing something up its obvious your not doing much engine rebuilding or many extensive modifications on a steady basis, EXPERT= REQUIRES YOU TO BE...

GOSFAST posted this great photo to illustrate the differance between rod designs http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/index.htm rods designed like the 3 SERIES generally won,t work with stroker cranks while the 2 series usually will the connecting rods you sellect make a huge differance in the rod to...

I know! youve never done something and your afraid youll mess it up, EXAMPLE the first time I looked over a TPI injection system I was very reluctant to start taking things apart, so as a hedge I took a dozen close up digital photos and labled every connection with masking tape and a majic...

bjhines posted these and thier good examples looking thru an (X) pipe mocking it up

your 100% correct if you were looking to cruise at 2500rpm , the cams above will be a P.I.T.A. on a car designed mostly for mid rpm cruiseing, you could get good performance from them but the street manors in traffic will be less than ideal....certainly manageable but not exactly smooth youll be...

BIGGER is NOT always BETTER, and since both the header primairy dia. and length and the collectors , which have a huge effect on the resulting scavaging can,t be changed as we change engine rpms, we need to maximize the cylinder scavaging charicteristics so as to maximize the cylinder filling...

I got asked recently what hydrolic roller cam ID suggest for a street/strip 383 combo?(obviously theres a wide sellection that may work,) ONE GENTELMAN pointed out ,after shopping around one of the least expensive deals seems to be the EDELBROCK CAM BELOW...

first obvious thing thats mandatory is youll want to temporarly install a second oil pressure gauge to verify the current pressure readings and ID bet the current gauge or sensor are DEFECTIVE and need replacing. ideally youll want to install a good quality oil filter and do an oil change with...