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My advice, whatever it's worth, would be to take another good nights sleep on it before you answer. If you still think you want it, I'd give it another night, etc. etc., until you decide no.

I tried that stuff in my P/S system. Went thru 2 bottles of it in 700 miles before I decided I needed new stuff. I think most of the time the seals are either petrafied solid or wore out, or both - that these miracle cures won't fix. Hocus pocus only works in magic shows.

Buy new and not rebuilt. My .02 on these P/S items. I put new valve and cylinder in. The pump was "remanufactured" Bought mine from Ecklers and when you bought new, they gave a good deal refund when you returned your old parts. Good luck, I did all my parts at once cause I got sick and tired...

Where did you come up with this idea?

Ecklers - and the quote of being everyones favorite is not as it reads.

Ditto. Bite the bullet and replace the hoses, pump (I think you can only buy "remanufactured"), NEW cylinder and NEW valve. And be REAL carefull screwing in the hoses (make sure you have them going in the correct connections) since it's very easy to cross thread them - and make them "just" tight...

Good folks for 15 years but then I've never put in a claim:)

Bubba's toolbox consists of a sledgehammer, a roll of duct tape, bailing wire and - for the advanced Bubba, a pair of vice grips.

Man O' Man are you going to notice a big difference. I had a '68 GTO with the 3.90 rear and CR 4 speed. The 3.90 blew and I put a 3.36 in it. What a dog off the line it turned out to be even with the torque of 400 cubes and 360 hp. It probably would have been OK if I didn't have the CR box...

Bad news to her is that she will have to pay taxes on the 50K value. Some of these deals say you can take a cash settlement in lieu of the vehicle and normally the cash is much less than the actual value of the car. What I think you can do then if you take the car is use the value of the cash...

When I bought my Corvettes in the early and mid 70's, the 427's weren't desirable to me because I figured the owners beat the **** out of them. Matching numbers weren't even a consideration then. Most motors were blown and had replacements anyway. In fact, it was harder to sell a BB car than a...

You got that right but it helps develope your bicips - did that trick in my '67.

Off the wall - could it be a lifter noice? Someone once tried to convince me I had a knock in my '69. It went away when warm. I adjusted the lifters and found out it was one lifter that needed adjustment. As far as oil, my .02 is to try to avoid the ones that have/need a lot of visocity...

You don't torque the end bolts down? How tight do you make them? I torqued mine to 40 ft lbs - should that have been done just for rubber bushings? Do you just "snug up" the end bolts when you use poly bushings? I'd be afraid they would unravel even with litetight!

HiYa Jack (when are you gunna get those teeth fixed?) Jokin aside, do you silicone grease the inside of the washer before you put the retaining bolt on (the side that butts up against the poly bushing)? I hope the answer is no cause after I did mine, I didn't. I did the loctite though. Thanks...

Hi Bill, Very satisfied with everything. My '69 was stiff before and just as stiff now. Handles much better than my '67 (which has the original springs and rubber C/A bushings that I did 14 yrs ago -in those 14 yrs., it has way less than 10K miles on it). The idler arm that I put in a couple...

For a long term repair, don't screw around -get a new tank. And it's really not too difficult to do yourself. Corvette Central or Zip has them at reasonable prices. Check the piece coming out of the tank that's attached to the fuel line hose. It may be rusted and you might want to include...

If you try to put the u-joints in without taking them to a shop, make sure you support the flange when trying to get the old ones out. I remember the first time I was working on them, I kept beating the s**t on the old u-joint and ended up buying a new flange, which isn't too cheap.

I've had good luck for the past 3 years (granted I've only put about 3000 miles on the car) with an alternator that I bought from Pep Boys for my '69 ( with power everything) - I would think it's a 60 or something amp +. My original was working fine but it needed a lot of clean-up work for it...

Never noticed any problem in my '67 w/o PB. How are the rest of the brake components? brake fluid, hoses (I have S/S braided lines), calipers?