Search results

Rock n' Roll :) - good luck with it.

Until a couple of years ago, they were priced in the low teens. With mid-yr small blocks now starting in the 40's, the C3's also are going up. Pretty soon, it'll be hard to get one for under $20K. I'm assuming "good" condition cars and not rat traps (priced lower) or Concours restorations...

A wide ratio helps launch a car better with a high rear gear (low numeric) like a 3.08 to a 3.55. Actually a 3.55 isn't what I'd call high. There is more multiplication ie. 2.54 first gear x 3.36 rear = 8.53. A close ratio box starts with a 2.20 low gear and finishes with a 1.1 top gear ( a...

IMO, it wouldn't be worth the effort going up one notch to the 3fifty's. You're definately gunna get some pull off the line with a wide ratio box and 3seventies. But be aware, it's gunna get a little "busy" on the highway. In my '67, I have the 4.11 with the CR box - I certainly wouldn't go...

The half shafts were too long - one was 14 1/8" and the other was 14". The longer difference matters - it sorta "magnifies" things down the line. It changes the camber and when you change the camber, you'll need longer strut rods. Then when that's fixed, the tow is out etc, etc. Ft. Wayne was...

That, IMO, sounds like way too high for normal driving. I run 30 and I thought that was alot. I remember when radials first came out and guys were replacing their Goodyear Polyglass tires. IIRC (and that was a long time ago;LOL) the article in Corvette Owner said to run something like 24 lbs...

That's maximum pressure which has zero to do with what pressure you should be running.

I do except for alignments and sometimes I think I can do just as good a job as the alignment guy. :w

I agree. Kinda hard to get an exact measurement on my back with a tape measure and a flashlight but the shafts are "at least" 14". When I ordered, I asked specifically if they are an exact replacement fit for the originals - and their answer was yes.

Oh, now I remember the difference between tow and camber/caster. I thought it was toe but now I remember about the pidgeon toe. Camber problem it is. I'm going to measure these ******'s tonight. I thought this whole thing was a good idea:pukebut I didn't want this aggravation of getting...

If those are pit in the bore, I'd say no. If they are sleeved, you will see the sleeve that is pressed into the bore - it's about the thickness of a match package cover. It should be obvious to you.

Well finally after getting these in (from Fort Wayne Clutch) along with my emergency brake job, the rear wheels are all cocked. The driver side isn't too bad (it may even be correct) but the pass. side is all ****** up. I drove it a bit and it appears it got slightly better but it's out of wack...

If you have SS sleeved calipers, the only causes of leakage in my experience have been due to non-usage of the cars and/or usage of the cars + the time factor. Both are normal. What isn't normal is buying sleeved calipers and having them leak. If you don't have SS calipers, get them cause...

:beerThanks to Brian (bmotojoe) for his Spiritual :L assistance in me getting this PITA job done.:drink

I painted both of my cars - the '69 about 1980 and the '67 in 1989. I primed the '67 in 1977 and it was in storage until 1989 when I put the top coat on. Paint was Dupont Lacquer with their epoxy sealer - no clear. In the late '90's, both cars (on just the D/S top fender) started to "pit" (for...

:W:W:WThis didn't work either. The blind hole doesn't permit it. I tied floss around the compressed spring and retainer but then couldn't get the pin in. I've done "impossible" jobs before (and completed them) but I'm about ready to pack it in on this. If after a couple of hours on it tomorrow I...

My '69 never starts on the first try but the '67 does. I would tend too agree that it is a choke issue but I've never delt with it and attribute it it's personality:L

I'm going a bit off topic here but I'd recommend that when the spindles are out that you (unless yours is in REAL good shape) to replace the emer brakes shoes and hardware with the Stainless Steel parts from SSBC. Do it now while you can get to everything.

:upthumbs That is Brilliant:cool :w

:chuckle That was my "Plan B." What I "shudda" have done is when I did the wheel bearings back in the late '80's, is to have done it then when the spindles were out but I guess I was to ****in' cheap! I did do them with a SS stuff on the '67 when I did those rear wheel bearings at the same...