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Trip was great. The ipad and iphones works without a hitch. . .and the lighter is fine. I'm not sure there is a fuze on the cig lighter. . .as I accidently grounded the wire on several occasions while testing. . .and didn't blow a fuse. . .which I would think it should have done.

I concur with JohnZ. Only reason to get a new Z bar is if there is something obviously wrong with it (like badly bent) Because getting the right replacement is a bit of a hastle. Make sure you fill the bar with grease (via the zerk fitting) after you get it all together. When all is...

so a couple of things about the rag joint. Just because the joint goes bad, does not mean that the ground strap in the joint is bad. . .but it can certainly cause that. You will know if the rag joint is bad if the steering has to much slop when going straigh down the road. Bad rag joints just...

Yeah. . .one man bleeders always have air bubles in the hose. . .because it sucks air arround the threads on the bleader, or form the hose to bleeder connection. I don't have power breaks in my car. . .so I don't know if running the car affect pedal feel. . . but I think not. Someone else...

I can't help you specifically, because I have a 1970. But what I can say is that most of the vaccume lines that go from the engine compartment through the firewall terminate behind the dash (at the drivers guages, or at the heater box behind the passenger dah), or at the climate control...

So I would like to add a couple of things. 1) The one man bleader, where you pull the fluid at the calaper, is a great way to do breaks. I've done it with my 1970 for years with zero issues. The only thing you have to pay attention too is that it will such the master cylinder dry in a short...

I second that. I used a napa version. REALLY well made, no leaks, heavy duty. Don't remember if it was USA made or not. As far as fit, the only part I had to tweak was the metal bracket that holds the core in the box, and fits between the in and out pipes on the core. The in and out pipes...

When I bought my 1970 vette, I noticed that the alternator had a broken ear (where the bolts hold it to the alternator mount). It was fine and everything was working well. . .I just didn't like the fact that the ear was broken. I was given a rebuilt and lightly used late 1969 alternator. ...

Ahhh. . .that's exactly the problem The trip we are taking is a Fall color run throught he Kettle Morine senice route of WI. It's all backroads (many not shown on a old fashioned maps. . .I know because. . .I'm holding one in my hand right now) and there a litteraly hundreds of turns. I've...

Only thing I could come up with is maybe drawing to many apps on a small cable. . .therefor burining a wireing harness out.

So. . .the wife and I are going to take a long road trip in the 1970 coupe this weekend. The trip we are taking follows a bunch of back roads through the forsest of WI. Was planning on using GPS in our iPad or iPhone. Friend of mine just warned me against charging my phones or iPad with the...

Good question, maybe it's not nessecery. The reason is because the stud (on the clutch pedal), that connects the clutch pedal to the rod that goes through the firewall to the z bar, is nearly completely warn through. I'm about to go on a road trip, don't want the clutch pedal to fail while...

Is it possible to change the clutch pedal out on a 1970 coupe without removing the driver lower dash?

To close off this thread. It took me three nights (7pm to 11pm) to get everything apart, and two nights to get everything back together. I installed a centerforce dual friction clutch. At first I found this to be VERY touchy, but once I broke it in . . .it was indistinguishable from my...

Oh by the way. . . Turns out I collapsed the diaphram on my old clutch. . .and litteraly blew the clutch disc apart! WONDERFULL!!!! The old clutch was an old asbestose Hays.

So ultimatly, I went with a Centerforce Dual Friction. Several friend have them and are happy. I've got the car all back together. . .and took it for a test drive. Sadly. . .the car is nearly un-driveable. I don't know if I did something wrong. . .or if its a bad clutch adjustment. . .or if...

Sometimes the reverse light switch can work it's way loose, and slip a bit, causing the reverse lights to be on all the time. If you have one bad bulb as well, this would explain everything. Have someone stand behind the car with the key to "aux power" (not engine running) then reach under...

ok. . .that's what frighentes me. . I know that when you are torquing the bolt on the diff input shaft. . .you are effectively sqeezing a crush sleeve. . .and over torqing could result in negative things happening. I also know that when you do the initial torq. . .you need a 30 inch pound...

So when I rebuilt my re-suspension. . .I took the diff out, opened it up and inspeceted the parts without disasembly. I then replaced the side yoke seals and bolted it all back to gether. Just found out yesterday that the front seal leaks profusely. . .if the car is parked pointing downhill...

After flushing the radiator completely.. .and putting a new thermostat in it. . .everything appears to be fine. No known engine damage. . .as a matter of fact, the car runs better than ever. . .untill by clutch broke. I'm trying to fix that before bloomington gold next week.