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Corvette Central sells a product called "Kable-Ease" that's made specifically to lubricate speedo and tach cables; I've used it for decades. :)

Photo below shows both pitman arms - the top one is for power steering, and has more of an offset for clearance to the control valve. It's doubtful that your pitman arm has anything to do with steering play - that's usually in the rag joint and/or in the steering gear.

That thread went dormant EIGHT years ago.... :beer

Gary at the Clock Works - www.clockwks.com. :beer

Just pull the electrical connector off the compressor clutch. :beer

What do you mean by "zero tension"? Is the rocker arm moving, the valve not opening, or ?? Need a better description of the issue. :beer

The Muncie 3846429 tailhousing with the driver's side speedo connection will work fine - it's the same configuration as the B-W T-10 tailhousing that was used in 1960 production. You could also use the 3857584 tailhousing with the passenger side speedo connection, but that will require a much...

The midyear fuel gauge sending unit range is 0-90 ohms, but you can't use it with an aftermarket fuel gauge; the midyear fuel gauge circuit is a unique 2-wire powered voltage-divider design, never used on any other GM car - a failed 5-year experiment, if you will. Aftermarket fuel gauges all use...

Clearance as shown in the photo is WAY too tight; mic the parts to verify them and post the results. At .001" (or slightly less) you're going to go metal-to-metal and spin bearings. :beer

For conventional Delco starters, if you have a 153-tooth flywheel, you need one with an aluminum nose and the two bolts directly across from each other; for a 168-tooth flywheel, you need one with the bolts diagonally across, and a cast iron nose. :thumb

I think you'll find that any standard plug in a 45 heat range (AC 45, R45S, etc.) or any plug that crosses to the AC 45 heat range (like Autolite 86, Champion RJ-14YC) will work fine for a cruiser.

If you want to replace that main brake line with the correct one and locate it in the same place on top of the frame, that side of the body will have to be raised about 6"; your '64 Assembly Manual shows the line and clips in Section 5, sheets B1.00 and B2.00. As an alternative, you might...

A good starting point is 8*-10* BTDC initial (set with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged, at the lowest possible idle), 24*-26* of centrifugal advance in the distributor (all in by 3000 rpm), and the vacuum advance connected to a full manifold vacuum source (not to a "ported" source)...

The body was built, painted, and trimmed on a steel build truck as shown below, and was then picked up by an overhead tackle at three points on each side for the Body Drop. The body is painted separate from the chassis during most quality body-off restorations; otherwise, masking off the entire...

Nope. The stamping on the front pad (now gone) is the only positive identifier for its original application. The heads may or may not be original to the engine after 47 years - what are their casting numbers and dates? They're under the valve covers. :beer

The A, B, or C suffix code on the Muncie "P"-stamp are ratio codes, and identify the gearset (A=M20, B=M21, C=M22); however, that coding didn't start until the third week of October, 1968, and your transmission was built before that. :beer

With "35" as the last two digits, it's a 1965 casting; it was cast at Saginaw and machined/assembled at Flint V-8, and since it's been decked and there are no longer any numbers stamped on the front pad, it could be from any passenger car, truck, or Corvette. :beer

That's a non-GM generic aftermarket rebuilder casting - made as a rebuilder replacement for the GM 326 water pump that was used on engines with a bypass hose to the intake manifold. :beer

Points have worked fine for me for 50 years - check/set dwell once a year (takes 2 minutes), new points once every five years (takes ten minutes). :) :beer

There is no "ram air" effect with a forward-facing scoop on the hood surface; the inlet is in the slow-moving boundary layer airflow. That's why Pro Stockers have their Harwood scoop inlet 18" above the hood surface, and even with that there's no ram-air effect until well over 100 mph. :beer