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If you mean machining for and installing hardened valve seats, don't waste your money and risk turning your heads into scrap iron when they cut into a water jacket. You don't need hardened seats unless you're towing a loaded box trailer uphill all day long at 100mph. Photo below shows what can...

Automatics don't use a flywheel - they use a stamped steel flexplate the converter bolts to; your flexplate is 12-3/4" in diameter and has 153 teeth. :beer

You can't. You need to remove the cluster and disassemble it in order to clean the gauge lenses; they're all installed from the back side. :beer

It's not a double-pumper; the original carb was a dual-feed vacuum-secondary LIST 4555 with center-hung float bowls and a single pump. :thumb

Tuck the "T"-shaped end of the flap into the hole between the shaft and the edge of the hole, and tuck it under the control arm so the top shock attachment shows inboard of the flap. :beer

Yes, he did - it's his "Heritage Center" for the collection. Our NCRS National Convention was in Charlotte in 2010, and we were the first outsiders to be admitted inside to see the collection, which is simply incredible, with store-fronts, gas stations, a drive-in theater, amazing lighting...

As noted in the Assembly Manual (UPC 12, sheet A2, lubrication item 7C adjacent to item #8, felt seal), go to the explanation for item 7C in the Lubrication section, UPC 0, sheet D3, where 7C says Oil, Engine, "Headlamp opening cover pivot bearing seal - impregnate seal then drain to prevent...

Reason #1 not to use an incandescent trouble light with a regular light bulb while working on your fuel system - use a fluorescent or LED light. :beer

Installing the complete C4 package is a huge tear-up, involving LOTS of fabrication, surgery, and welding; don't even THINK about it. :beer

Yes, it will - just substitute backing off the nut and going to zero lash, then go down another 1/2-turn instead of doing the feeler gauge thing you'd do with solid lifters. The process ensures that the lifters for each pair of valves noted is on the cam's base circle. :beer

Brake boosters ALWAYS run on manifold vacuum - isn't there a vacuum fitting behind the carburetor on your intake manifold? If the un-tapped boss on the back of the carb is open to manifold vacuum, you'll need to plug it; call the Holley tech line and ask them about it. :beer

Do you have the Assembly Manual? It shows the wire routings/clippings in great detail in section 12. :beer

You might try posting this on the NCRS Technical Discussion Board - it's much more likely to get a response from someone over there; there aren't that many of those tools around, and they're more likely to be in the garage of a serious restorer. :beer

Yes, it is - using a film of dielectric grease (available at Radio Shack) on the terminals in the two 8-way multiple connectors on the engine side of the fuse block will protect them from corrosion, which is a chronic C2 issue. :beer

Sounds like you need a ground for the actuator. :thumb

At a minimum, you'll need a new flywheel/flexplate to match the smaller 1-piece RMS crankshaft bolt pattern. :beer

The backup light switch installation is shown in section T86 at the back of your Assembly Manual; here are a couple of photos showing it installed. :thumb

It's not possible to "convert" the original '64 Saginaw 3-speed with non-synchro low gear to have a synchronized 1st gear; it must be replaced with a '66-up 3-speed, which was a complete redesign, including a synchronized 1st gear. :beer

<<The scouring is only on the outside of the caliper.>> What is scored - the rotor, or the caliper? :beer

'67 Fuse block photo below - also shown on page 55 in the '67 owner's manual. :beer