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I agree. The ONLY acceptable repair for that leak is to re-solder the joint. If the sending unit works, save it and fix it - the reproductions are a crapshoot. :beer

Common problem. There's a drain hole at the bottom of each plenum chamber, just rearward of the body mount at the base of the firewall; bend up the end of a coathanger or a piece of welding rod and use it to pull the crud out, with an occasional shot of water from the top. You'll be AMAZED at...

Yes, almost all of the parts are dated one way or another. Out of the 22,940 67's built, 3,754 were L-71's, and 2,198 of those had F-41 (F-41 was only available on the L-71). :beer

Yes, original steel wheels are dated, but you have to dismount the tires to see the dates - they're stamped on the rim under the tire. Photo below is a '63 wheel (dated December '62), but a '64 wheel would have the same 15 x 5-1/2K stamp, with a later date. :beer

Nope - don't know where that quoted info came from, but it's wrong. ALL Holleys built through 1972 used a 3-digit date code (year, month, week). After 1972, they went to a 4-digit date code, where the first 3 digits are a Julian date (day of the year), and the 4th digit is the year. The Holley...

Dunno why they describe R43's as a "replacement for AC-44's"; THEY'RE NOT. 43's are WAY too cold for normal street operation. Run those on the street and you'll learn all about plug fouling. :eyerole

The composite spring is lighter, but they're "bouncy" (due to lack of inter-leaf friction), and as a result they require unique rear shocks that are specifically valved for composite springs, with higher rebound damping, to minimize the "bouncy-bouncy" syndrome. :beer

All midyear distributors were Delco, cast iron, tach drive, with the part number and date embossed on an aluminum band around the housing just below the tach drive. :beer

Midyear front sway bars: Standard - 3/4" Big-Block - 7/8" Big-Block w/F41 - 15/16" Rear Sway Bar - only used on '65-up big-blocks. Rear Springs - All used the same 9-leaf spring, except big-block with F41, which used a 7-leaf HD spring (twice the rate of the 9-leaf spring). :beer

Note that the seller is David Crane - he hasn't earned the name "Crazy David" for nothing; he puts weird stuff up on eBay all the time for outrageous prices. Ever clicked on the Crane Corvette website? Obviously developed by a schizophrenic that's had some BAD drugs! :W

I'm with Hib - there's no way on earth a carbureted 427 big-block with 12:1 compression is going to run on 93 octane premium; unless you enjoy paying $7.00 a gallon for race fuel, it's time to change pistons. :beer

That's correct - it was a 1968 one-year-only idiosyncrasy; I forgot about it. :beer

That block was used in millions of 327 passenger cars and trucks from '64-'67, and in '66 Corvettes. J 6 5 is the block casting date (October 6, 1965). :beer

That internal noise and its symptom (loud at cold start and fades away in 5 minutes) is consistent with piston slap; lots of C5's had it, and there were several C5 TSB's on it. :beer

4001XA is a COPO billing code for "special paint"; could have been primer or another GM color not available on Corvettes. It would also appear on the original window sticker and tank sticker. :beer

Did you use the super-thick steel flat washer/spacer between the bracket and the pushrod? If you don't, the top bracket bolt will interfere with the pushrod when the pedal is pushed... It's shown in your Assembly Manual, section 7, sheet C2.00, item #4. :beer

The shop manual calls for backing off the starwheel (10) notches, and that's done with the cable slack; after making the starwheel adjustment, then you can make the cable adjustment at the equalizer. :beer

GM press-molded hoods are smooth on the underside, and aftermarket hand-laid hoods are heavily-textured and rough on the underside. :thumb

Try Don Martin at Eagle Wire Products in Knoxville, (1-800-977-0030). :beer