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Make sure your storage compartment/glove box light is turning off when you close the lid; that's a common source of an ignition-off draw. :beer

That's correct - the 3512 block was used in 1969 (in later cars) in addition to the 439 and 270 blocks. :beer

Only if you don't find a leak anywhere else; the missing fluid is going somewhere. :beer

If you don't start the engine during winter storage, the physics that result in crankcase condensation won't exist. Change the oil prior to storage, and leave it alone; when Spring comes, just drive it. Don't over-think this stuff - engines aren't "delicate". :beer

Don't use the "advance kit" weights - they aren't hardened, they're the wrong contour and weight, and they're junk. Stick with the GM weights and back the initial timing down 2* at a time, starting at 12*, then 10*, then 8*, and see when the pinging stops. :beer

The only time you need to disconnect and plug the vacuum advance line is to set initial (base) timing. Idle mixture is adjusted with the engine in normal idle condition. :beer

Yes, that's correct - that's exactly how the A.I.R. system worked; remember that the catalytic converter hadn't been invented yet, so they got no downstream help in reducing emissions like they do today. :beer

Correct on all four counts. :thumb The factory spec for a '71 LT-1 (1112038 distributor) is: 0* @ 1060 2* @ 1340 17* @ 2400 24* @ 4800 In combination with the factory initial timing spec of 8* BTDC, that's a pretty conservative/lazy curve (for emissions) for a solid-lifter engine. A better...

You don't want to do that - the 36* "total timing" (sum of initial plus centrifugal) is measured with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged; the vacuum advance is completely independent of centrifugal advance, and vacuum advance plays no part in "total timing". Read this to understand the...

Here's how to do that. :) http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_info/timing%20&%20vacuum%20advance/MAPPING%20ADVANCE.pdf :beer

Either option will cost more in parts and labor than the car is worth now, and will devalue it to far less than it's worth now. :eyerole

The weatherstripping between the door vent window frame and the windshield is all on the windshield pillar - there's none on the vent window frame. :beer

To clarify, my post referred to the 302 Z/28 with the "30-30" camshaft. The LT-1 used a very different cam, whose intake lobe closed the intake valve 10* earlier than the "30-30", which built higher cylinder pressure at low-to-medium rpm and made the LT-1 slightly more sensitive to detonation...

You need to find out what's inside that engine. 220 psi cranking pressure is "off the charts", assuming it was checked properly, with the plugs removed, engine warm and the throttle held wide open; normal cranking pressure is 160-170 psi, and even the 302 Z/28 with 11:1 compression and domed...

It's unlikely that you'll get a response from the original posters in this thread - it went dormant five years ago. :beer

Page 47 of your owner's manual says it's an 1156. :thumb

Yes, it is - that's the way the system is designed; the front parking lights didn't stay on when the headlights were turned on until 1968. :beer

No, but judicious application of foam pipe insulation in that area (and along the bottom edge) will aid low-speed cooling. In addition, '67 small-blocks with A/C used a clip-on molded rubber flap/seal between the top of the radiator support and the underside of the hood - all of the usual...

Vig, photo below shows what an original Harrison stacked-plate aluminum radiator looks like; they were all the same from '63-'67 on small-blocks - note that there are no side tanks - this radiator is all core (that's why they had a separate expansion tank). If your radiator doesn't look EXACTLY...

Interesting that the title is dated last week.... :eyerole