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Are you sure you have the correct (40083) fuel pump (see photo below) with the inlet and outlet 180* apart?

I've never owned a Powerglide myself, but I've heard many Powerglide owners with the same complaint; apparently if the car isn't driven regularly and sits for long periods of inactivity, the converter gradually drains down, overfilling the case, and the excess comes out of the vent, leaving a...

The only thing on a trim tag that's exclusive to only the car to which it was originally affixed is the Body Number, but there's no way to directly correlate a Body Number to a specific VIN, even if you have all of the original paperwork. On 65's there is a rough correlation, but only +/- 100 or...

Your new aluminum radiator has more cooling (heat rejection) capacity than the old copper/brass one you removed; I'd re-install the stock fan, clutch and shroud and you shouldn't have any issues. :beer

The '65 model year started with plain round rivets, and the transition to the "rosette" rivets started about #7800; both types were seen until about #10,000, when the rosette rivet was used exclusively. :beer

When the vacuum diaphragm in the A.I..R. diverter valve fails, the valve defaults to open, and it'll "pop" on deceleration, plus causing a vacuum leak. Could also be an air leak in the exhaust system. :beer

Neither option is practical, and either one would be prohibitively expensive, or it would have been done before (the '98 doesn't have a "frame" - it's a unitized body). About all you can use from a '98 is the LS engine, unless you have $100K or so you don't mind spending. :beer

All '65-'82 Corvettes used exactly the same 4-wheel disc brakes with 4-piston Delco calipers; there were no "drum" brakes. There's no "reset button" on the combination valve. If there are no visible fluid leaks and the pedal goes to the floor, there are only two causes - you still have air in...

Are you talking about the tachometer or the oil pressure gauge? Sending units are cheap, and take five minutes to change. :beer

As I recall, there were two forged 3.76" stroke BB cranks - the 7115 was nitrided, and was used in the L-71 and L-88 427's; the 6223 wasn't nitrided, and was used in solid-lifter 396/402 applications. The counterweighting was slightly different on the 6223 due to lighter pistons. :beer

Sounds like the oil pressure sending unit is going south (yours is electric, not a direct connection like earlier cars). Real oil pressure doesn't jump back and forth between 40 and 80 psi. :beer

The numbers say it's a '63 coupe, built the second week of January, 1963, Riverside Red exterior with a black vinyl interior. 3782870 is the correct block casting number (used in all '63-'65 Corvettes), and the raised block casting date code will be found on the rear flange of the block about...

It's more complicated than that. In order to get to the four top bolts that attach the rear cover to the crossmember, you'll need to drop the crossmember out, so the spring has to come off and the half-shafts and strut rods have to come out. When you finally get to the point where you can remove...

Nope, that's not a Corvette intake manifold; it's GM, but not Corvette. With shop rates being what they are ($65-$100 per hour), recognize that it's going to be quite expensive to have the car brought back to life, depending on its driveline condition, engine internals condition after sitting...

Shoot the upper radiator hose just above the thermostat housing with an I.R. gun and compare that reading against the temperature gauge at the same time so you know what the gauge is really telling you; Step #1 in diagnosing any cooling issue is to determine if you really have a problem or not...

That just might be the only 283 built on October 39th. :)

Bill, I've been restoring Corvettes since 1966, and have never seen a midyear without a factory-installed trim tag (except for those that had it removed at some later point due to theft, tag swaps, etc.). Your car was built within a day or two on either side of December 2, 1964, and the "12 4"...

Note: The drill must be run in reverse. :)

That switch has no valving function whatsoever, and doesn't control or affect distribution of brake fluid to any component; it's simply an electrical switch, and lights the "Brake" warning light in the cluster if there's a difference in fluid pressure between the front system and the rear...

The only circuit breaker on a '67 is for the headlight rollover switch, and it's mounted on the driver's side hinge pillar just above the courtesy light, above the kickpad. Sounds like you have the "big red wire" syndrome, which is a common problem on a midyear. Battery power comes into the...