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No. There's a separate supply for the blower and the compressor clutch. Find out if it's one or both that are not getting power. Maybe a previous owner wired them through the back up lights?

I read the post and got the impression is that the pedal is already low (not against the stop) before the OP puts his foot on it. Air/bad fluid won't do that.

Please read the rest of thread. The OP did not conduct himself in a respectful manner or one that reflects the values of his military service.

The only real danger is when disconnecting the positive post first instead of the negative. In this situation if the metal tool bridges the car chassis (negative ground) to the battery positive post a short circuit will occur.

1) The negative cable is the ground for the car. It can't short against itself. 2) The battery negative terminal is already disconnected- there's no path for the electrons to flow though.

What could it short to?

I'd take it apart to see what's actually wrong before making any commitments.

No car of any type has had a vented tank or cap since the early '70s, when EVAP systems first appeared.

Perfectly normal. All will be in line with the car sitting on it's tires.

Your battery is low/dead.

Then if the battery is maintaining a charge and the alternator is putting out reasonable voltage while driving, I'd stop looking at the gauge. ;)

Make sure the engine idle speed is correct.

You've saved the pic as a .pdf file and posted it as an attachment, which mean is must be downloaded and opened to view. Many people don't/won't/can't do this for fear of a virus etc. Post the pic as a .jpg which means it's directly viewable.

If you didn't look at the gauge, what other symptoms are there?

Try one of the other wheels in the problem location. If that doesn't fit, your car is the problem and needs to be fixed properly. If it does fit, the first wheel is defective and should be returned. Spacers are not a good idea. Fix the root cause.

Running/park lights are not legal in California if the vehicle is in motion. That's why your headlights come up at the first click. Law section.

And you're sure that the wires in the cap at the 5 and 6 cap position are actually going to cyl. 5 and 6?

How do you explain the distributor jumping exactly 180 degrees? The test you performed is not a sure fire way of finding TDC compression stoke on a cylinder. The right way of doing it is pulling the valve cover and making sure that both valves are closed.

If the distributor rotor is actually off by 180* then it or the camshaft is way out of 'safe' range. Don't make things worse by bodging an ignition wire fix. I'd double/triple check that #1 is on actually the compression stroke and not on the exhaust stroke. One can easily be mistaken for the...

Something's not right. The additive is to help with excessively sticky positraction clutch plates. The problem would not be evident with a car up on a lift while rotating the diff or wheels manually. It would also not be evident while driving in a straight line.