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No, I have taken apart 100's without finding broken clutches but I have also found plenty with broken clutches. You won't know until you do check them. Some rebuilders are still selling & s them but I won't use them. You also want to get it apart to check it for cracks, polish it good inside and...

Looks like a 70's posi. Yes it is better then your DANA. I would take it apart, I can see it has the slotted " snowflake" clutches in it, appears to have 10-17 spiders as well. My recommendation- polish and tune it. Once apart spray it down with brake cleaner and likely blow it off with air...

Hi Gord Well a lot depends on usage. Your power level at 450hp and probably close in torque wouldn't require a 12 bolt conversion, is borderline on a blueprinted 10 and really right in the range I designed the super 10 for which is 4350-550hp. Note: this is based on the real super 10 that I...

Hib, I could be wrong but I thought that was about the cost of that kit. There is another 9" IRS on the market as well, I have not worked on one of those either but some who priced them out told me close to 9-10k by the time they are done? A Tom's 1480 12 bolt is less and has been track proven...

Very cool. I have met a lot of good corvette people all over the world and really haven't had any issues with the actual owners, the rebuilders and vendors- that's another story!

As Hib said the 9" is certainly robust. This swap has been around for a while and while I have not installed one some on the various forums have done them. I believe one such build was documented on DC a year or two ago. Depending on your application, HP, trans, traction, and driving style an...

Hi Bill, No I will not be going to Carlisle next month, my first missed year since 1998. So that means no 2-3 hour seminar this year either.

Since you go to CF, look up Mark aka known as Rudolph Schenker. I built him an iron diff for his immaculate 82 about 9-10 years ago. He can give you some installation tips from his own experience. Tell him I said hi.

A little trick if you do the iron swap- buy some Nordlock washers and use Loctite on the cover bolts. Different rates of expansion between the aluminum cover and iron housing will cause the cover bolts to loosen if you just bolt it in place. You can get Nordlock washer from McMaster Carr or one...

I dug up some pictures of one of these- before I threw it in the scrap barrel. I would feel dishonest if I took these in and told someone they were built the same standard of my iron units. I have turned them down with some offering a much higher rate for them. Good luck. on the stand, cover...

I don't know how the currency exchange rates based on your price. However if you were to look at that iron diff make sure to take the cover off and look closely inside. New seals won't resolve the inherent issues or poor assembly work. A crated diff here is about 135 lbs, give or take. Used...

The gears of the used iron or Dana? The parts are not interchangeable between the two. If you find a good iron core you can check the gear lash and pattern to see how it looks. That is what will be your guideline to setting them up. The gears are good and you do a basic rebuild then you probably...

up to the BB change over, the pinion yokes were 1310. Then for a while 1310 or 1330 were depending on application, by 1975 they were all 1330. Optional aftermarket 1350 can be used as well but I only use those on the high HP cars. If your drive shaft is 1310 or 1330 and the pinion yoke different...

63-82 corvette posi history- open diff were standard till 1970 when posi became standard 63-64- Dana = junk 65-68- Eaton, square window with solid steels and 10-18's= better then the Dana but prone to cracking due to casting design. 69-79- Eaton, tear drop window, much better then previous...

I don't know what the iron diff cost over there but here an out of the car, 74-79, is between $300- $400. They all need work so those asking more then $400 either don't know about these diff's or are just trying to cash in on someone. Look at the posi case, you want the tear drop style posi...

You will need to get the front bracket, strut rod bracket, rods, spindle flanges, and possible shorten the Drive shaft. If you are referring to the old CF threads, there are some there I build iron units as well who offer opinions on the build and how it worked out. If you build the iron diff...

Replacing the front bearings is relatively easy. You can still get usa made Timkens and they are as good as the original NDH bearings. It was common practice to clean and repack them at a brake pad change. Rotor runout is also important to check at the same time. This link may help. Rotor...

me, I wouldn't spend a dime or minute on your aluminum diff. I would get a 72-79 iron diff, 1/2 shafts, and brackets. Build that and bolt it to your batwing. It will be stronger then any 80-82 diff.

I haven't bought a new Holley in 10 years, the last being a 670 street avenger. I had to tune it out of the box but it works pretty good. I have heard recently they are another brand outsourced and the QC isn't the same. I can't back that up but I wouldn't be surprised. I ran a Q-Jet for years...

Yes sounds like what happened to our 75's front and rear bumpers. We didn't have to glass ours but clearly you could where one side fit much better then the other. Since it was a street/strip car it didn't really matter and they were great until a pizza kid ran a stop sign and totaled the car...