In the general snow they were ok, now going up a steep hill would be another story. I lived in the city and back 30 years ago we didn't seem to get as much snow as the past few years. I do recall driving home about 15 miles on the highway in the snow and another time during a heavy rain going...
I drove my 69 everyday, 30 years ago. It handled well in the snow and rain. Didn't leak inside, the heater and defrost worked great- as did the radio. I had a ball driving it. I stopped after 2-3 years and bought a truck. We didn't use salt as much back then but I still had to repair rot in the...
Hib,
It makes about 400hp at the wheels. Not sure on the Tq rating he has the dyno sheet. It is a manual, now a Liberty Gear Tremic, face plated. He ran different tires on it from street to slicks, it is a street/strip car. It was running in the 11's and probably would have just made it into the...
Shock loading breaks parts. In addition to the trans the other weak links are the 10 bolt posi case and the outer axles. I have changed many that were broken from abusive usage.
I don't think the higher redline will break things as much as a hard launch with hook up will.
I think I would put...
If you don't push the car hard that ST-10 will be ok, but then why build a 383? You can get an iron mid-plate to beef it up and the after market performance group once sold a cast iron ST-10 that was stronger but I suspect you have the stock aluminum ST-10. Again my son blew those up with about...
Matt
75's and later were not Muncie trans, they were Borg Warner Super T-10's and had better ratios but were no stronger then a Muncie. Neither will hold up to the power level you have if you hammer on the car. My son is on his 2nd 75 and blew up 3 ST-10's pushing the car hard. The auto gear...
Since you just bought it and it runs strong I would just drive it, every chance you can. One thing leads to another with these cars, I work with a lot of owners modifying c2 & c3's. With todays tech you can get into 500-700hp much easier then years ago, then the driveline will need to be...
If you jack up the rear and let the 1/2 shafts hang down they will bind if you start the car and put it in gear. You would have to have the shafts at ride height which is parallel to the ground not hanging. Without the car weight on the suspension I don't know if you will find the problem...
Could be tight clutches. You can try sucking out the old nasty oil, adding (2) bottles of fresh Gm additive and topping off with the LUCAS 85-140 and doing figure 8's in a parking lot. If that doesn't work you can test a different additive but you might be looking at diff/posi work. I'm building...
I had the same problem with a 75 we bought. The previous owner installed a new switch and still was blowing out the fuse for the dash lights. Knowing the new aftermarket switches had issues, I found a good used switch and once installed solved the problem. Tossed the new import switch in the trash.
Hey Hib
Sorry I didn't see this for awhile. I now use 2 bottles of the GM LS additive because I believe it has changed over the past year or two. The part # & bottle have but I never needed to use more then one bottle with a tuned posi until last year. I tuned a posi and had a chatter from it...
As you know that is a direct pressure line to the gauge. The fittings are a little different so always use a line kit from a corvette vendor to get the correct ferrules. So if you tap into the block with any mechanical psi gauge to get the reading, the you find the dash gauge doesn't show the...
I had that kind of problem with my 69 vette. It was just a crate motor driver with stock starter. A lot of heat is near the starter and soaks in so you may have that problem. You can search online about heat soak issues with solenoid mounted starters. FORD didn't have that issue because it was...
Old Q-jet issue was the accelerator pumps. When worn and even some on the market today, they will cause a bog when pressing on the gas. My old Buick was real bad when I was a kid, floor it and BLAH nothing, then it would catch up and go.
Lars is the guy to speak to about building it and where...
The steering is power assist so it will be "snug" compared to the full power steering of the cars of the era. The steering boxes are the same for both manual and power steering. With power you have the valve, pump, cylinder and different pitman arm & center link. You should have little play in...
I use Timken automotive bearing grease, which looks and feels just like the Red & Tacky, in all my rear bearing builds. You can use the red & tacky without concern.
I stopped using Mobil 1 a few years ago.
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