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If the blower is coming on by itself there is an chance the BCM is faulty. The blower module is where power originates for much of the system. It can do some strange things...turn on blowers when the car is parked, not allow compressor clutch to work..other odd behavior. I tighten the card...

Probably the lower... the upper is fairly straight forward....\get rivets out,,grind or drill, HIT the sob and knock it loose then pry the lower shaft out with a press OR a pickle fork. Either requires a hammer...

The rear hubs will be more challenging.... more stuff to deal with and less access. Get the rear up on jack stands. I pull the wheel and d/c everything and d/c the half/shaft strap bolts. D/C the tie rod ends. I then rehang the wheel with 2 nuts and get under the car and use my feet/legs to...

Thanks Ted, Actually someone told me which resistor on the board inside the module IS the key code, so I can simply look at the resistor and decode its colors to know what code I need by then using the chart that you provided. Once I know what ohms the replacement module is then its easy...

well, I went thru the FSM process for VATS diagnosis and did all the test. Its a faulty module as a whole, its not or unable to complete the ground path internally to the ECM... It can be jumped and the starter works. Bypassing the enable relay offers no results..still no crank. This is the...

So, the module is simply NOT available anywhere? my particular issue is the lack of signal to operate the enable relay. The relay is good, there is no signal from the module.

Who has them? who sells new modules. How can you do a proper bypass to make it home when the module acts up and won;t cooperate? Grounding the module green wire seems to allow it to ok starter and run . otherwise its dead as toast. Any suggestions as to where to buy NEW vats MODULES?

Its not too bad. Best advice regarding the hubs is to buy GOOD parts....otherwise you WILL be doing it again...within the year. Good hub assys cost $150. If you get a "deal" for $75...throw them away and go find some real hubs. Lots of chinese bearings finding their way into the american...

I've seen a chart somewhere that had all the "need to know" stuff in order to do a gear swap and do it with the correct part...it was a chart that listed the rears, tire/wheel size/diam and a cpl other things. Had the replacement gear size listed for whatever combo of wheel/trans/rear you could...

Just get the signal generator off of a car that had the gear that you now have installed...Lots and lots of GM cars had the same trans...just be sure about tire size etc. The part is out there. fleabay is a good place to look. Search there and find some sellers (salvagers) that you can...

Needs a new headliner...lots of places do that. There are kits for DIY as well.

do a search on fleabay for any common vette parts...then ID the seller and go to their online store. Call or email...there are plenty of C4 parts available..all yrs. Just have to know how and where to look. You can probably find the bracket assy for sale on fleabay, buy it now deal.

I know I damn sure do ! its a gamble....maybe slightly better odds in my favor but not by much if my 87 will crank (no starter action) when I park it real hot and return within 1 hr. I believe the solenoid sticks and won;t throw when its frying...parked at 220+. It'll crank everytime when its...

IF the car is getting to 230+ while cruising then there could be trash in the radiator shroud. AT freeway speeds there should be good airflow to get it down to thr 210 range....and 230+ in traffic for those ambients. I thought you were saying that 210 was too hot...not at all... but 230 on the...

Trust me... what you see is NORMAL. Its 105 outside ! Your temps are actually pretty friggin good for those ambients... I lived in Gilbert for many yrs...I know exactly what the weather is like and how hot the car runs. That was BEFORE I installed my big radiator...and mine did well there...

Sure wish you had ask where to get new fuel injectors....$412 is almost double what you could have had them for...next time, contact Jon @ FIC. A matched set of 8 cost less than $250 and comes with ALL the o-rings, gaskets and instructions along with the best customer support on the planet...

definately go for the molded hoses...those don;t kink like the normal straight heater hose does when its bent in a short radius curve like there will be in the TB bypass...another reason I went to metal.

sounds like a void or air pocket in the master...its pumping nothing so nothing flows out. try getting a stick to hold the pedal down and leave it for an hour or two...see if fluid can drain into the pump cylinder and maybe get a "bite" on the fluid again. Otherwise it needs to be pulled thru...

Its not a big deal... just one less place to leak that needs a special hose. Take a replacement hose from the intake and run it to where ever you can mate it (with a double barbed fitting)or replace the heater hose. I ran mine from intake to heater core, one piece. I also used brass pipe and...

Mine just did all this yesterday....and I consider its performance to be perfectly normal... ex: drove 10 miles to wallymart & lowes. Temps cruising were 189...with a/c. But the return trip included Wendys (chili, guilty pleasure) and some stop & go. Temps crept up to 220 but not alarming...