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Stock radiator? in Az thats pretty normal. When I lived in Phx 4 yrs ago it was normal to heat up to 230+ with the a/c on in traffic and stay well over 220 when cruising. The high ambient temps are brutal and make air-stream cooling slow if not impossible. If you believe it cooled better...

2 new injectors? so you had some, not all replaced? thats not good... A full set of modern fuel injectors can be had from FIC for <$250 and that comes with all the gaskets and o-rings. BUT, lets back up.... To work on this fuel system you have to understand how it operates..otherwise you...

Its possibly the sensor connection...the default for a d/c sensor is 80 psi, so readings opposite that indicate a contact thats got intermittent contact or dirty...corrosion. You have 2 sensors on that fitting...one is oil pressure gauge and the other is a oil pressure switch for the fuel pump...

exactly.... hard to see, the 2 small screws are under the lower edge of the filler panel. You may have to pry the edge up with something to access them. Then the top edge has a tab that hooks in a slot. Remove lower screws, pull bottom out and top drops away.

Thats rare! Those trays are just glued to the tank bottom and come off all the time.... Its baffling to me and other folks...why these cars seem to be fine when new, but after some yrs they start this starvation stuff. Mine (3rd one) would read to the last mile and not sputter until that tank...

ok, here ya go. This is a good saturday project. BTW...I turn the strainer to the right when its inserted thru the "well" bottom so its flat and not rolled up on the tank front wall/bottom since that slopes upward. This is a reply that I gave to someobne from another forum where the same...

Common problem..the strainer is NOT the problem...the lack of a windage tray is what causes it to starve for gas at below 1/2 tank. This will also ruin the pump too...sucking air even briefly runs it with no lubrication. There IS a simple cure. Give me a few minutes and I'm going to copy the...

too fuzzy to see detail but guessing on the list of possibles... photocell inside ambient air temp sensor ...uhhhh :ugh

Assuming you;ve changed the fuel filter on the frame ??? I do not see any reference to that along with the other parts parade....any MAF relays? The grounds that you are interested in are a stack of 5 that are all on one bolt on the block somewhere just over the oil filter. No, it won;t run...

Good choice... you;d be seriously bummed out if you had stuck 30s in a stock engine. The ECM has a very narrow window of compensation...it cannot adjust for that much gas being shot into the engine..it would attempt to narrow the inj pulse until there was no pulse at all. Bump up the inj size...

Got the number for the "bat-phone" as well.... That number self destructs the day after installation......;LOL

Take the belt off and see if it continues... if so, it has to be trans or engine not pulleys. Idle air circuit can whistle loudly sometimes. Mine is very loud like a whinning but its just the air passing thru the small ports in the big TB. if it might be PS...suck out 1 pint and add LUCAS PS...

yep... what they said... Just wanted to add that the carrier can be a PITA to get into a travel position with the full size tire in there,. and IF you happen to need to store a 315 you can by using a short length of chain with S hooks on the ends. I used one to hook onto the carrier and the...

Thx TedC, Just went thru the same stuff on mine.... suddenly I have a roaring-gurgle back there and I'm thinking I blew out a muffler... what it did bloow out or off, was the rear Y pipe had broken 1/2 between the muff and the welded splice because the muffler hanger allowed wayyyy too much...

I'm not going to beat the long dead horse much more on this thread.....not a lot... but I gotta ask,. Are you changing these parts (aka big $$$ ) because of what the GM FSM is telling you? :ugh Haynes manuals, Chitlens, and ANY $29.95 off the shelf manual is useless and WILL cost you...

Water can enter several places. Look at the big seal over the door hinges. Water runs down there and into the carpet. The inner seal is suspect as well. Look at the seal along the hinge wall/mount.

The key to ANY fiber-glass repair is the bonding of the new resin to the old cloth/fibers. This is done by grinding away the layers of resins until you get edges of all layers of the cloth exposed...Typically there are at least 2 layers, often 3. Its like grinding a cone shape or a pit thats 4"...

Dawn, you can rent or borrow the necessary tools (vac pump, gauges) from Auto-Moan and do the a/c yourself. Shops get a 3 digit figure ($1000+) to convert....a DIY with the right tools can be done for $150..maybe less. :thumb The secret to successful a/c work is cleanliness and sealing...

still winter in Az? :rotfl Thats jacket weather in southern Arizona ! (several yrs in Mesa/Gilbert) Phx area. I miss it a lot. I moved to a real ugly climate. Houston Tex...same heat plus some horrible humidity. The 2 numbers rise together each spring....re: 90 degrees...90%...

There were LOTS of C4s stolen over the years....mostly from valet stations, stolen keys, towed or key copies made. As VATS evolved the numbers got smaller and smaller due to the "pass-key" design where I guess RFI technology ignores anyone that does not have the key-fob. Push buttom start-up...