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Yeah, I know the feeling... I thought I had an exhaust leak at a header gasket...kept hearing that spitting, clicking sounds when I stepped in it. After making myself crazy tightening, looking at and going thru the gaskets and donuts...it turned out to be a sticky A.I.R. check valve that was...

Thats great ! :thumb This is a case of knowing the correct question as well as the answer... it wasn't ever about "why don't I have power at the fuse or.." it was more of a question like "why doesn't the fuel pump run". if you had been fully aware that the system only activates for 2...

In the drawing that vetteoz provided there is no 3rd wire...so I am not going to make that call...The switches that I am familiar with are 2 wire and they can be jumped...same as the switch closing. There is no real reason to do that if there is power to the red wire. The odds of having a...

In Ca? yep....they might even impound the car with their current laws. He'll never even get hooked up to a test machine if he fails the visual inspection. Big no-no tampering with smog equipment in Ca...hell to pay if you pass one of the mobile smog test trucks that sit and scan traffic...

Not sure you;re looking at the right switch.... Your oil pressure SENSOR has a single wire. It is mounted on a metal 1/4" plumbing "T" with the oil pressure SWITCH. They are next to each other. Switch has 2 wires like the drawing indicates.; They are usually the same color as the drawings...

Yes, I see in the drawing how they took the links out (finally) and ran that back-up thru a fuse slot. That seems like the right thing to do for ease of access. Its still the same basic design with extra fuses and no hidden fusable links. From what he says....I'd go with fuse 2 as well, but...

FSM = Factory Service Manual MSD = Mucho Shiddy Distributer ;LOL ;LOL ;LOL ;LOL

Electrical is easy. Keep testing for power going backward thru the system until you find it. :thumb Your fuel system is not so easy....... it has a back-up system, that allows you to start the car in case of relay failure.....it just makes you crank on it until it builds 4 psi oil...

Welcome ! the car looks great...not 'rough' at all... :thumb Enjoy and live large, you paid your dues and deserve some "me" time.. !

The FSM will pay for itself the first year, with precise diagnostics and the very good flow-charts that give you detailed instruction on what to do if it does this or that. :thumb

I'll give you the info now just in case you do need to buy a hub bearing assembly....spend the money on good ones ! They range in price from $75 to $200 each. The cheapo's are chinese made POS that will be loose from day one and be worn out in 10,000 miles. The OEM equivelent or GM part cost...

why would it only be in one area and not all of the valve-train? IMO it seems more likely to be related to the dist drive, oil pump drive or even camshaft end runout....a careful timing of the noise helps tell you what its related to. Time it and see if its the same speed of the cam or the...

Ok, yeah, I've seen the metal body booster but didn't know that it was the single number code that made it different than the plastics... DO check the rod length. That link-pin on the pedal is difficult enough without having to do it twice. IIRC the thru-rod between booster and master cyl is...

If anything......its the length of the thru-rod from the pedal to the booster. Check that before installing. I've seen guys install and get nada out of the pedal...rod was too short.

Thats a digital cluster....everything that can go wrong or has gone wrong IS IN that cluster. Replacing the cluster or rebuilding is the proper repair. You can locate the local rebuilder thru your neighborhood Corvette store or club and send it off with a money order for $350 and get it back...

31K ? good find ! Welcome to my world where I drive a car that drives me crazy ! Like they say....gotta love it ! Take good care of the car and it will take good care of you. :thumb

yeah ya did ! :thumb I sure like the look of the new fuel lines and hose ends..! I've been smellin a lil gas from somewhere around the rear end and suspect a worn/rotted vapor return line...so I'll be doing the same repairs soon, too.

Lets make sure its NOT hub bearings or u-joints before something comes apart.... IF its the ABS....its more of a growling sound that ONLY happens when the car moves over 3 mph in forward. The ABS runs a self-test and sets the ABS pump after the car moves a few ft and reaches 3 mph in forward...

They're probably the same. To confirm this go to Oreilly auto parts and use their parts finder/locator and look at the compatable list. Its easy to see the part number then compare that to other yrs, even different makes & models. Most chain store auto parts stores have a similar website for...

DO spend the money on the mass-backed carpet. That other 'economy option' is thin and its not formed to fit very well. The mass-backed carpet is preformed,. the backing acts as insulation to help deaden sound and road noise, and it holds its shape. The rear is especially important being over...