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I agree - your symptoms are typical of air in the system. Do a good bleed job, starting at the point furthest from the master cylinder, and get all the air out - you'll be surprised how firm you can get that pedal..! Lars

Questions 1 & 2 will be correctly represented with a '78. I think the tranny mounting bracket is different between 78 and 79, but the pipe attach method could be the same, so I'll take any info you can provide - thanks!! Lars

I could use some help from anyone who has a stock '79 exhaust system: Could you look at your exhaust and tell me: 1. Is there a hanger located at the rear flange of the catalytic converter that hangs the converter and tailpipe up to the forward side of the frame crossmember? Can you get a...

A properly performed weld reapir is as strong as the original parent material. An improperly performed weld repair is a piece of dangerous crap. I run an aerospace weld shop, and knowing what I do, I wouldn't have anyone who is not AWS D1.1 qualified do any structural welding on a critical frame...

You might want to check the follow-up thread to this where we went back to the dyno with some changes - this is actually more interesting than the first run: http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/c3-technical-performance/126329-new-dyno-results-re-test-383-a.html

The current version of my Q-Jet paper has an entire section dedicated to Q-Jet secondary operation - it describes how the secondary side works and the causes of non-operational secondaries. Drop me an e-mail if you need a copy: V8Fastcars@msn.com There is a significant difference in sound...

Al, You're dealing with idiots again. The front suspension and alignment process on a C2/C3 Vette is identical to any other GM car - it's just like aligning an Impala Station Wagon, and it requires no special tools. The A/C stuff can get in the way, but that's no different from any other GM car...

The entire rear suspension and driveline can (and should) be assembled in the air - there is no need to have the weight on any components except when doing the actual alignment. You cannot get the spacer or the shims for the Vette rear bearing setup from an auto parts store - you need to get...

Update: Al sent me his carb for evaluation and setup. The carb had a broken airhorn, and the "mechanic" working on it had lost several parts and broken a few other parts. With a few parts scrounged from the donor carb pile and a little tuning and setup, the carb tested out great and runs fine...

Drop in oil pressure at elevated rpm is caused by one (or both) of two things: 1. Windage. If the engine is not equipped with a windage tray, or has a poor quality windage tray, the air "slugs" being thrown downwards into the oil pan from the bottom of the pistons at high rpm will blow the...

I'd suggest you get a firm estimate in writing on that job if you're going to have a "mechanic" do it... It's likely to be a pricey effort if the bolts are seized up.

I've done several of the rebuilds, and it's not a bad do-at-home job if you have access to a hydraulic press, a good variety of hand tools (including 3/4" drive socket set to use as backers) and some measuring equipment. It's not something you're going to do in an afternoon, though. On a...

The lack of vacuum advance will require that you run a larger throttle opening at idle to maintain idle speed, thus contributing to the run-on problem. By running a vacuum advance you will be able to close the throttle blades down quite a bit and actually produce a smoother idle with less...

With the engine cold and "off," push the accel pedal once to the floor and let it up. By doing that, the choke plate should snap fully closed, and the choke coil should lift the fast idle cam to the fully upright position and place the fast idle screw on the highest step of the fast idle cam...

If the engine has been modified, the idle rpm will be the lowest rpm that will keep the engine idling consistent and reliably. Depending on the size of the cam, this can be anywhere from 650 to 1000 rpm. Regardless, run the lowest comfortable rpm at idle in order to reduce or eliminate run-on.

Rod75 is correct: Run-on after engine shut-down is caused by excessive idle speed or excessive throttle blade opening. GM solved this problem by using the idle stop solenoids so that the throttles would close slightly after the ignition was turned off. The key, as noted in my opening...

Keep in mind that "freeze plugs" are not actually there to protect the engine from freezing. The so-called "freeze plugs" are there to remove the sand from the casting process, and they're just random plugs to plug up the sand removal holes. I've never seen a case where an engine has frozen...

In answer to your initial post question, "Is finding a replacement carb for '80 L82 really this tough? " the answer is "yes." Finding nice, replacement Q-Jets is becoming very difficult, if not impossible. For the most part, "rebuilt" carbs being sold on eBay are worthless, and finding...

Thanks for the photos and response. So the factory setup had rubber lines clamped to the ends of the steel tubing? This is the interface and area I'm interested in seeing - the rubber line attachment to the steel line and how the rubber line then attaches at the cooler. Can you guys get me a...

I'm working on a '79 auto trans car that has had the tranny cooling lines cut off the car. I have a new set of lines, but I need some photos of what the routing and configuration is of the lines where the hard lines end at the front of the car. Could someone post or e-mail me some photos of the...