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Nope - these failures can be completely quiet. Sometimes they'll make ticking or popping sounds, but more often you will hear nothing.

It doesn't look like you're down to bare 'glass yet to me - I think it looks like bad previous bodywork. Get the area down to bare 'glass and then evaluate what you have going on. There is no "tape" in the car. And what grit paper are you using? Your sanding looks too fine for doing the...

He can have an arc grounding right off the plug boots, and the timing light will fire just fine...

These are the items that will cause a single-cylinder misfire: Bad plug Fouled plug Bad plug wire Bad distributor cap Burned valve Broken ring Damaged piston Flat cam lobe Bent pushrod Broken rocker arm stud Broken Rocker Arm Bent valve Broken valve spring Rocker arm nut fallen off Blown head...

I don't think I have received an e-mail from you - I don't show your posted e-mail on my outgoing list. Lars V8FastCars@msn.com

The overdrive is without the computer, but converter lockup is ECM-activated. There is an aftermarket harness available to make the converter lock up without the ECM.

Here as a meeting of the Mancave/bar/he man woman haters club. Note beer on tap, Scotch at the bar, plenty of engines getting ready to run:

Here's another test we did on the dyno that you may find interesting: When the engine seemed to be rpm-limited, we were thinking that the HEI distributor/coil was seeing coil saturation at elevated rpm, and that the ignition system was limiting the high-rpm performance. To test this, we...

Thanks, John! I actually showed up at the dyno with a printed Test Plan that we hung on the dyno cell window - this allowed us to really bang out the test configurations and stay focused. The 18 dyno runs represented 8 different engine configurations (not all of the changes and configurations...

That's correct. The marks, if correctly placed, are for checking total timing without the use of a dial-back timing light. A non-dial-back light tends to be more accurate than a dial-back for checking total timing, but the marks must be correctly placed on the balancer. If you do not know how...

The cylinders weren't completely dead - they were firing. But with leakdown at that rate, they certainly weren't at peak efficiency...

In doing post-dyno inspection of the engine, which includes cylinder leakage testing, we just found that the guy who machined the heads screwed up the machine job: We had 2 cylinders with non-concentric exhaust valve seats, allowing massive leakage, and almost no compression, on 2 cylinders...

Rather than give up the 10 horsepower, we'll probably set the original hood safely aside and install an aftermarket hood that looks as near-original as possible with a little more clearance. :beer Lars

For results and comments on my second round of dyno testing on a 383 small block, be sure to check out the thread in the C3 Section at: http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/c3-technical-performance/126329-new-dyno-results-re-test-383-a.html Lars

We took the 383 Small Block (see previous thread http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/c3-technical-performance/125743-383-dyno-results.html ) back to the dyno Friday to see if there was a little more horsepower to get out of it using a new mix of parts… Previous dyno results indicated...

I call this the "50% Hobby," because only about 50% of the parts you buy will fit, work, or perform as advertised (on a good day). The majority of my time spent on my '64 restoration was re-fabricating parts to make them fit and work as intended... welcome to the 50% hobby... Lars

If you are not needing original Packard wires but are looking for the best quality wires that fit right, I'd suggest you go on the MSD web site and download their .pdf catalog. The catalog has a wire selection chart showing the actual individual wire lengths and the boot style at each end. You...

The new dyno date is April 1st. Stay tuned... Lars

Dot-to-dot does put #1 at TDC. But it's TDC on the exhaust stroke. The dot-to-dot is for ease of engine assembly - not for distributor installation. It is assumed that the engine will be rotated to the firing position before installing the distributor, but it really doesn't say that anywhere...

That's correct: You need to install the distributor in the #1 firing position with the dots on both gears pointing straight up. You're currently 180 out. Lars