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Unless you think someone wants your 10 year old wheels just go buy 4 new lug nuts when you go down to get the locks taken off. Then you won't ever have to worry about where that socket is hiding. My wheel locks and socket are in the bottom of a tool box. JS

get the full boat treatment from one of the Hunter GSP 9700 road force balancers. JS

You know you can replace the diaphram in that booster for way under $50. That is about all that can go wrong with it. It comes apart easy and a hole in it is easy to find once you have it off the car. JS

I've got a 200k mile 87 coupe. It has been extremely reliable. NEWS FLASH, it's almost 20 years old and most of the rubber is getting kind of shabby. All of it is terribly expensive. These cars have sealed wheel bearings. About 100k miles and they are loose and the car will wallow around in...

Take a look at thirdgen.org There is an article comparing many different combinations of intake systems on one of their forums. It comes down to what you want. JS

The cam to make the power you want will require a custom program. So unless you want to get into programing find someone who you can work with on your combination to burn you a chip that will work. They need to know fairly close your airflow. Cam, heads, compression, intake and exhaust. JS

If you make sure it's not the heat shields I'd go with the cat. I finally found mine when the brick in a pre-cat broke up and plugged EVERYTHING up. Try the end of a hammer handle right on the front of the cats and see if you find out anything. JS

Not long ago someone posted an informative note about wheel bearings. They said GM had a subsidary NDH making their bearings. They actually have NDH stamped on them. Supposedly, the Timken bearings are good, made in USA also. I got bearings from Pep Boys with a lifetime warranty for $99...

The set of wheel bearings on my 87 have lifetime warranty from Pep Boys. Word has it make sure the bearings either are Timken or NDH, made in USA. The NDH is stamped on the bearing in small letters. These are OEM, the same as the high priced ones in Delco boxes. JS

I know this has been beat to death. The 16" SZ50 on my 87 have finally gotten hard as a rock, they've got to go. Who has any experience with the 255-50-16 G Force Sports? It's up between them and the Kumho Estca 712. The Kumho's on my brother in laws maxima were loud as heck so I'm a little...

The plug wires will really cause that with some of the waste fire ignitions. JS

Ford doesn't make the injectors. Who do they buy them from? JS

It's a fact as wiring and grounds age there resistance increases. To find out how much check the headlight voltage vs battery voltage. Mine was over 1/2 volt lower. Low voltage has a marked effect on light output. I installed relays and Ciebe lamps with 100/130watt bulbs. Now I see things at...

I have a set of SZ50's with nearly 30k miles on them and they haven't worn unevenly at all. If the car drives good, doesn't follow ruts in the road, doesn't have slack/play in steering your alignment is out. #1, toe-in is out of spec. JS

I don't know if this has anything to do with your problem. Some of the control unit boards warp and the contacts don't mate properly. Maybe someone can tell you what the fix is. I think you might even be able to fix it with some well placed ty-wraps. JS

A clogged cat will show up if you run the car at about 2000rpm for 30sec or so. See the exhaust manifolds start to glow a dull red? Sure sign of a clogged cat. The rattle on mine was a pre-cat comming apart. Eventually it broke up and REALLY plugged up the main cat. It would barely make...

You might need to do a minimun idle speed adjustment. Also check the TPS voltages. The idle adjustment is behind a plug above the throttle, there is a proceedure in the shop manual. With the IAC all the way in the car should idle at about 500rpm in gear. You might have leaking injectors to...

Some of the early 16" wheels will fit over the 2 piston 13" brakes. The enkie 9 1/2" wheels are the ones, and you might need to file the fins on the top of the caliper. I've seen pictures of them and there is maybe an 1/8" clearance. For the 87 and earlier cars you need a special caliper...

I've never replaced a boot but I think it has a metal ring that is a press fit around the joint. You still have to take it loose from the spindle. The shop manual shows a tool that goes between the two studs and will pop the joint out of the spindle. You can make it out of common hardware...

FYI, a weak battery puts a lot of stress on an alternator! You don't want to kill it and add to your problems. A battery tender or cheap charger is a lot less than a new alternator. JS