I'm hooking everything back in the car and have a slight problem. The manifold I'm using, an Edelbrock RPM Air Gap, does not accept the orignal throttle linkage plate. With some mods I think it will work and pretty much have it aligned where I "think" it needs to go.
Can anyone do me a huge...
Good catch I was wondering if anyone was awake!
The A/F meter on the dyno computer wasn't working so they used an external gauge. If you look at the first post in this thread of the motor on the dyno, you can see a little black box in the center, at the top, just to the right of the air flow...
Just an FYI.
During my dyno test I ran regular Valvoline 10w-40. Between draining the oil out the two piece timing cover :mad and vibrating my oil filter loose, I ended changing the oil for the second day on the dyno.
The guy who owns the shop told me to use Valvoline VV851 Oil for breakin...
As requested a photo of the final dyno sheet ( Engine only) . I pushed 425Hp max with a fixed and locked distributor, lost some as you can see on the sheet, down to a respectible 422.8HP and 466.6 Torque...........I'm pretty happy with that.
I just built a 388 and dropped it in and installed a B&M Holeshot 28-32 which is 10" converter, to Jack's point the higher the stall the smaller the converter, I wasn't aware of this until I called B&M to confirm as I was leery replacing a 12" with a 10". The core size of the higher stall is...
I just got the engine back in and of course the hood doesn't fit. Evolution gave me some links to new hoods, they all look great and have settled on three. The manufacturers of the hoods specify 2" above stock, 3" above stock etc. All except Ecklers.
In talking to Ecklers they told me to place...
Great idea...................but there's no way the hood will even come close to closing with the Demon and the air Filter combo. Just the vertical ports on the Demon would punch holes in my hood if I slammed it hard enough.
I think I'm going to put it all together and run a straight edge...
Evolution:
Can you tell me more about the hood. Was it stock and moded or did you buy it that way, if you bought it, where?
I only need 2 more inches or so won't know until I get the cleaner on but that looks about right with a drop base.
Jack: The heads are 74 cc, I didn't want the CR too high so I could stay on pump gas( CR is about 10.3:1 ). The gas we used during dyno was 93 octane.............I didn't build it for gas milage :D. There's a private airport about a block from my house and I know the guy who owns it, I've been...
Several reasons to do this, major one is to break it in and the other is to find and fix problems before it goes in the car. After spending close to $8K on this motor, I didn't want to chance something coming apart in the car. The oil leaks alone saved me because the dyno allows an emergency...
Just so you know, retarding the timing is as simple as loosening the distributor and rotating it to set the timing, not rocket science but if you don't know the internal workings or CR or anything else about the motor, I'd check with someone who does, might save you some $$$$ in the long run...
The actual Dyno time was $500 including the tune, they charged me for an entire day but actually spent more than 10 hours on the setup. Estimated time was set at 4 hours but due to the problems we encountered, it took more time than anticipated.
BTW I love that paint job !
Retarding ( or advancing ) the timing determines where in the piston stroke the plug fires. Example before TDC, After TDC etc.
Retarding the timing will change where the spark happens on the stroke ie later rather than sooner. The thing you need to be careful of.......IF that engine is designed...
Good point leave it to Jack to make it :D
Block was decked to zero
Bored 60 over
Internal Balance Scat crank ( 350/383)
Comp Cam 12-250-3 .507 intake .510 exhaust Flat Tappet
Hydraulic lifters
SRP -4 dished
6" rods
1.6 roller rockers
AFR 195 standard port, springs and valves
Edelbrock RPM...
If you don't feel comfortable with this and are afraid of doing more damage............leave it to a pro, actually take it to a pro and have them do it for you.
Were the bolts easy to insert?
There is no way that any sealer would cause this, it's just not strong enough to cause this kind of problem. If the bolt was too long and bottomed out it might cause it.
One way to avoid this after you get it fixed is to "work" the bolts in. Put them in about 1/4...
First off thanks to all the people on this board that helped me get this motor to the point it's at, without your help ( and you know who you are) this would have been a lot more painful.
My won and I started this project two years ago, so it's a long time coming. Started with a old 350 block...
I just finished the build on mine and just got if off the dyno on Friday after two days of testing. I spent a few weeks researching the best way to do this and the critical component is the push rod length. The length sets the right geometry for the rocker on the valve stem. You need to make...
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