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I agree with Mikey-- I don't see a problem. Cold, I get nearly 80 PSI- once it gets hot, it runs around 65 PSI. With the oil pump I have, that's about right on for my engine. (it's NOT stock).

Correct- that little tube above the filter goes to the gauge. Technically speaking, the "Bourdon" tube is internal to the gauge. You might take a close look at that tube- from the engine all the way to the gauge. If it's got a spot that's starting to seep or even if it shows a little sign of...

To the right of and on the firewall behind the distributor is the upper connection for the starter extension harness. Check that. All the power for the car runs thru it. Both fusible links, the "start" wire to the solenoid, the ground for the heater fan- it's a rectangle 6 way connector.

69 gauge is mechanical. Having air in the line is no deal at all. If you're seeing big jumps in the reading one possibility is the bypass at the oil filter mount is having a problem. Opening and then closing.

I'd have to go after the starter solenoid, Sounds like it died. When the tow guy rapped the starter, it shook the internals and got it to crank. And then it stuck in that position. Might be a good time to just replace the starter and solenoid.

Check your wiring diagram- the choke heater gets it's power from a choke heater relay. If there is a bad diode in the alternator, the choke light will come on. Or if the small brown(?) wire from the alternator plug is broken the choke heat wont' operate correctly. Could be a bad relay. The choke...

Fixed that for you Mr. Bill That's done- Make a list of what works and what doesn't, look at the wiring diagrams and see what could be common to any combination. Since you plan on having the dash out take a good look at the general condition of the wiring harness. Can you see places that look...

No real info on a carb, but I just got a street HEI- (no hi performance module or coil) for $80 new with cap/coil/rotor. With a Q-jet manifold, you can use that or any spread bore flange carb-

The 4 pin ignition module has to have external advance devices- centrifugal/vacuum, where the 5-7 pin modules get the advance from an external source (electronically). Is the rich smell at idle? Check your manifold vacuum at idle and then see what power valve is installed- it could be opening...

Jim- I'm running the original TI ignition too- make sure you have the correct coil. All the weights and springs for the old style GM point type distributor work fine. Disconnect the vacuum hose and plug it- see where the timing is at idle and at 3000 RPM (dial back timing light helps). Then...

If the O2 sensor is just hanging or the wires a cut it's not doing anything anyway. But unless the carb has been changed from the CCC system (E4ME?), and the distributor has been swapped from the no vacuum advance and a 5 pin module to an older one, it's got to stay in open loop. And terrible...

Here is the print for an 81- http://www.nrjvette.com/johdotukset/Chevy%20Corvette%201981.pdf Check for power at the LT Blu wire at the choke heater for a start. I usually print the diagrams, tape them together in the correct relationship and get busy tracking the system I'm looking at with a...

134 is happy with a different orifice tube, a parallel flow condenser, new oil, and 10% less charge by weight than R-12. And it still won't cool quite as well.

The nice thing about the STS Baffles is that if you do open the end cap more than you wanted, you can get a plain old freeze plug and have it tack welded on- presto- no more hole. FWIW- I drilled mine 4 times each with a 1/2" drill bit. Made a cloverleaf shaped hole. Would have been easier to...

Here are some sounds- Ol' Red. My 69. And one of the Owens-Corning cars:

The Owens-Corning #12 L-88 went to Rick Hendrick for a cool $1,000,000.00. With the documentation and history that car has, I'd say that is cheap. But if you're not into cars in general, and Corvettes in particular, then you wouldn't care anyway. My regret is that I was unable to participate in...

There are a bunch of decent crate motors out there. All the way from high end race shops to stock as a stick. Looking for a SBC, I'd hunt for a 383. Loads of torque, make good HP too. And with some shopping, you can get a good warranty on just about all of the crate engines.

I went down low behind the gills on the left inner fender. Good airflow. Not that it makes a lot of difference under the hood on my 69, that BB throws off so much heat it's crazy. I looked at inside, but was being a little lazy. The factory TI amplifier is on the front of the core support. Tough...

The starter cranks without the ignition? Is that like it cranks when you turn the key but won't start? Or it cranks when you hook up the battery? If it's cranking when you hook up the battery, there is a wire from the hot post on the battery touching the inside "start" terminal on the...

I call 60 PSI good. One of those places that too much is way better than not enough. I run a minimum of 60, but Ol' Red has a ZL-1 oil pump and straight 30 weight oil too. And all the bearing clearances are right in the middle. I''ve seen it up around 85 cold.