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If the ECM is not seeing the temperature it expects after xx minutes running, the check engine light "should" come on. And the system won't go into closed loop where the ECM is controlling the mixture. If you have a dwell meter, there is a green connector sticking out of the harness somewhere...

OR go back and rework the 82 to fix the bumper covers and give her a nice new coat of paint. For what you'll spend either converting it back to a 69 (big bucks) or buying a good 69(even bigger bucks), you could repaint, AND do a heart/lung transplant on the 82.

You are correct. An inside micrometer is much more accurate than a snap gauge- especially in a round bore. Even with an inside mic, the edges of the anvil touch before the center does. Think of this- I'll use a Main bore diameter of 2.45 as an example. IF you use a mic that has an anvil that is...

The one thing I see missing from your list is inside micrometers or snap gauges. Snap gauges go into a bore, then you release them so they "Snap" to the inside diameter, then you turn the handle to lock and measure with an outside micrometer. A calculator is handy too- IT's tough to figure the...

Should be on the Emissions label. IF I recall, there's a connector near the distributor that is disconnected, timing set, reconnected, and then clear the codes that are set with it unhooked.

I was looking at longer bolts in the top mounts, a flat plate toward the floor and a bar between them. Be un-handy for getting into the storage, but would allow me to add a harness. As far as adding any stiffness into the body, I've never seen or heard of anyone that has seen any fiberglass...

IIRC , 75 was HEI ignition- makes life pretty simple- only 2 wires- a fat (10ga) red wire and a white wire (tach), the 10ga wire goes to the BAT terminal and the white one goes to the TACH connection on the cap. All done. I suspect the reason they (GM) used differernt connectors is so vibration...

I've been looking at the SHARKBAR. It's designed as a mount/support for a 5 point harness, but it looks to me like it would also double as support from the lock pillars as it mounts across the car behind the seats. (I'm too cheap to buy a real sharkbar, so I'll probably fab something out of...

MY bet is, as you suggested, the driven plate of the clutch is stuck. Could be to the flywheel or the pressure plate. (really makes no difference, stuck is stuck). Couple of ways to get it loose, one is to roll the car in gear while holding the clutch pedal to the floor (engine off) and it maybe...

On the EPA table is a new mandate to take that 10% ethanol in the gas to 15%. Alcohol (ANY alcohol), has less BTU's per gallon than gasoline. SO it takes more to get the same distance. Not to mention the carb jets need to be bigger, the rubber parts in the fuel system get attacked by the...

Made it easy to find what it was.. Hopefully no damage?

I respectfully disagree. My 69 had an L-88 installed under warranty when the L-89 spun a bearing. (The PO knew the zone service manager). That engine broke the cam in 1976 and the PO installed a crate LS-7. The PO installed the L-88 radiator from GM. IT runs warmer than the L-69 and L-71's, but...

I agree with John here. Remember, back in the days of the C3's racing seriously, electric fans were not a real option. And those guys were running 160+MPH. Electric fans are good, but they have the potential of opening up a host of electricla issues. I know personally of one that locked up and...

How long since the points and condenser were changed? You noted that the black wire from the coil+ to the starter get hot. Are you talking hot as in temperature or hot as in powered. Powered is normal. I'd look at the primary lead from the points to the coil- remember, it flexes everytime the...

The current draw caused by the poor grounds to the starter could have lowered the voltage to the distributor causing a weak spark. Kind of a circle. Starter turns slow because of low voltage, ignition is weak because of low voltage, requires longer cranking time, lowers voltage more.

Check the grounds from the battery to the frame, the frame to the engine. It kind of sounds like the starter isn't getting enough power. It takes some good current to start when it's hot, but more when it's cold. Clearances are tighter, the oil is thick. After that, I'd pull the starter and have...

R-12 is the original stuff in '81. R-134 is the EPA mandated stuff used today. And everyone knows how good the EPA is at telling us all what to do.

If the tops are not adjusted really tight or have locks, sometimes you can lean on the top and thump it with your fist and the locks will drop. I've gotten into many a Corvette that way- use CAUTION with glass tops- a little too much and they break.

Look it over carefully as GTR1999 and JohnZ said. Another thing you can do - with the front off the ground and securely supported, slide under and hold onto the pitman arm and push against a tire while a helper turns the steering wheel. See if the shaft out of the gearbox moves up or down with...

There is a huge difference between 79 and 80 wiring. 79 was the last year for no ECM control. 80, they went to a pretty simple (compared to today's systems) ECM control. The ECM controlled the mixture but also timing. Does your distributor have another plug coming out of it below the cap?