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You can take the info you get from Gary (GTR1999),as they say, as the "FINAL Answer". I've seen his work- not only pictures of it and how he gets there, but also up close and personal. Top quality.

I'd fix the original system. Like you said, it's half the cost. Use the difference for something else. Not picking on the rack and pinion steering system, lots of guys say they're a wonderful thing.

No picture. Let me see if I understand- When you put the actuator in, it spreads the shoes away from the stop at the top over the actuator? Is the adjuster at the bottom installed? And is the actuator lever not flipped 180* from where it's supposed to be? It's been 5 years since I was into my...

Some tips and tricks- In a past life I worked heavy line at a couple different Chevy dealers. 1. When you get the cap off and the seal removed, use a wire wheel and "carefully" buff the cap on both sides of the seal. Clean the whole thing with brake cleaner and either blow dry or let it air...

THis is a picture of a small block seal- the difference is the diameter and sometimes the color- Victor Reinz has proven to me to be pretty decent in a BB.. The side you're looking at in this picture goes to the FRONT of the block.

When you start getting into port sizes things can get interesting. A small to medium port (intake) will flow faster(port velocity) than a larger port, but since it physically cannot get more air thru it, it will limit top RPM. On the flip side of that, the smaller ports will produce great torque...

What's the fun in that? Jeez, you need to be hitting 4 or 5 problems at the same time. ;LOL ;LOL;LOL j/k really, let us know what you find- it may help someone else along the way.

Once you get under there, shift the trans into neutral- make double sure it's all blocked so it won't roll-- Then look at the levers where they come out the bottom of the shifter- there's a notch or hole that a 1/4 rod (drill bit) will slide into- make sure it slides in without effort. That pins...

The amount of oil should be in the service manual. I'd make sure that the oil you get is R-12 compatible- I don't recall the number of it, all I can remember is "refigeration oil" which helps exactly zero. The new oil is an esther base and I don't think it's good for R-12.

Possibly the sealer between the birdcage and the cowl has dried and cracked. Or there may be something at the point where the birdcage transitions from the windshield frame to the structure for the dorr pillar. Either way, you need to track it down and get it fixed. Water and the steel of the...

12v testlight. Probe the open terminals in the fuse block- probe it, turn the key on, if it lights, that's the one. (provided it goes out when you turn off the key)

The trim tag will give up the secret. Drivers' side just below the top of the door, mounted to the cowl.

Using a voltmeter to a different ground every time? Reading your post, I'd say you have a bad ground between the body harness and the battery, yet a good ground between the starter and battery. easy test- run a jumper from the battery ground directly to the birdcage and see what you get.

IF the ECM does not see 4th gear, it won't know when to command a ground. Lockup is also dependant on engine temp. If it (engine temp) is too cold, and the TCC locks, it'll shudder and feel like the engine is stumbling. (That's digging up my really old memory.)

Check the end play on the side yokes. Don't try to replace the half shaft u-joints without supporting the flange. Driving the joints out can bend the flange. If you do decide to drop the differential, it's heavy so be prepared, when you get it opened up, inspect the case carefully.

I suspect that the liquid mounts are for nosie and vibration control. Not saying anything bad about later year Vette owners, but some of them are kind of sissy. I'm running poly motor mounts- still have the rubber trans mount. Vibration seems to be transmitted thru the car a little more, but...

I'd think linkage would have an effect on both up and down shifts too. I'm going to go with the brass synchro rings being worn. The clutch was a pretty outside shot, but nothing is worth overlooking too. Before I ripped the trans open, I'd check it all- clutch adjustment, shift linkage...

All the other gears shift OK? 4-3 downshift? Just the 3-2 downshift is a problem. Make sure the clutch is releasing completely. After that, at 90k, I'll have to say the synchro rings are pretty well done.

The SBC is a good one to start with. Straight forward, no tricks or anything that will trap you into the "well, if I'd have installed that before this it would fit!". I'm kind of going back to finding a beater that you can pop the motor and trans out of. Be a fairly cheap way to get your feet...

Dig around salvage yards for an engine with low miles- it's going to be like finding a four leaf clover. A 4 bolt main block (IMHO) is more desireable than a 2 bolt. Two schools of thought- the 2 bolt block has thicker webbing in the bottom so in theory it's stronger. If you're not planning on...