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Between the cancel springs and the cancel cam. If a spring is losing it's bounce or the cam is positioned incorrectly (they can slip) it can make them cancel too quickly. As noted, the lever arm can get loose too. If either side is not going fully into the detent----

If the brown wire (tail) and a gray (instrument lights) got together somewhere that could keep the lights on too.

I've had luck with Hoppe's #9 Gun Solvent when everything else failed.

Looks good Lars! :thumb I've always said I need a garage with a small attached house....... :beer

Same clip holds the window handles on. Correct installation is with the open end of the clip toward the knob on the handle. I've taken them off by pushing the door panel away from the handle and popping the clip with a screwdriver. Not the easy way, and usually ends up by hunting for the clip...

Yep. And every other trans too. Combination of clutch material, bearing/bushing wear, planetary gear wear, you name it. It's no worry unless there are big chunks laying in the pan or stuck on the magnet.

The key to the '81 carb is getting the initial adjustments within specs.

My thought is that since you're in there replacing springs, it's a really good time to replace the shoes and anything else that is accessible- like the cables. I read that the stainless steel shoes that were around at the time I did mine were not exactly the same "round" as the ID of the rotor...

ANYTHING to do with the parking brake will test you. Especially while it's still on the car. :mad Getting the rotor off can be half the battle. IF it's never been off, it's still riveted to the spindle. Drill the rivets out, pull the rotor, and there's still not quite enough room between the...

Typical parks brake. If a spring or link breaks it can rub at odd time and make noise. As far as pads go, I use plain old Wagner pads. Probably not the cheapest, but not $180 a set either. For a driver, it just dosen't make any sense to put a high dollar set of pads on that eats rotors.

After I read your fix, I went back and looked at the wiring diagram again. I'll bet the bulkhead connector for the HVAC has burned pin 50.

I don't know how yours is setup, but often the hole on the right is tapped for a 1/2" pipe thread and gets a nipple for the heater hose. Temp sensor is usually between cyl 1 and 3 in the left head. Some had another sensor between 6-8 on the right for a fan temp sensor. EFE and EGR went into the...

All the breakers I've seen are normally in high load circuits- like the power windows. Not saying that the breaker in your car is the one for the windows, just that normally GM used them in that circuit. If you don't have them yet, the GM service manual and AIM will be an asset you should...

The fan does not run in any switch position? The heater blower is a good place to "cut your teeth" on electrical problems- it's a simple circuit. You need a 12v testlight. 2 wires going to the fan motor- a large purple one and a black one. Black is the ground, and usually attached to a tab on...

Right after the fuel filter, take a look a the fuel tank vent and the hose from the frame to the tank and the one from the frame to the fuel pump..

:thumbGood point Peter- the VSS- vehicle speed sensor- is in the back of the speedometer head. IIRC it won't cause any problems with the open/closed loop, but it could cause a check engine light is the ECM doesn't see it.

With that as your plan, you absolutly must have the service manuals and AIM's for both. It could be done "possibly" using only wiring diagrams, but they will came as part of the service manual package. Bolting it all together won't be much of a show- the engine/trans changes between 79 and 81 is...

IIRC, bolts that are marked like that one, with the 9.8 on the head, are usually metric. Standard US threaded bolt markings are normally hash marks.

I've got to go with Tom-- American 200S:thumb I looked at them when I was in the market for Ol' Red. For some reason I couldn't get the size or backspacing I needed then.

The emblems in earlier years were held on with a couple of different schemes. Some used nuts on the back, some used "barrel nuts" the emblems just push into, and later they used molding attachment tape. For that one, use a heat gun to soften the tape, then a piece of fishing line to "saw" the tape.