To the best of my recollection, the off road exhausts are identical in outward appearance to the "regular" under the car exhaust.
The only difference is that the muffler is less restrictive, having 3 internal baffles instead of 5 as I recall.
I've never seen original chambered pipes. Those...
I'm no engine guru, but black, sooty exhausts coupled with idle screws that do not work at all point to a rich running condition. Somethin' ain't right with the carb. Your car should stall out if you turn the idle mix screws all the way in. Chuck
In the glove box, the "hot wire" has a bizarre fish hook like connector which fits into the plastic part of the glove box light.
See if it's shorted or touching ground. It's a fairly thick orange/red wire as I recall. Chuck
Do the courtesy lights work? The rear compartment light? The glove box light? Brake lights? Clock?
If any of these items aren't working, that's where I'd begin the search for your battery drain.
Glove box light and clock would be my first 2 places to look. Chuck
With the key off, the only thing that should draw current is the clock. The clock is an electromechancial clock, BTW. It has an electric rewind. With the clock wound, it "ticks" like a mechanical clock till it winds down, then the points touch, and the electric rewind kicks in to wind it up...
That may be the problem, Barry. I get a TON of both AM and FM stations on the old analog radios. Both have been rebuilt.
The 69 is FM stereo too. Even that works, although poorly by today's standards. The 2 speakers in the kick panels don't do a whole lot.
Dave Frazee who USED TO BE...
WOW, all of this is so far over my head that I feel that I'm reading a foreign language. :)
My daughter bought me an IPOD for my birthday. I use it in the 63, 69, and even the 00.
I plug it in to the cig lighter adapter, and tune to 88.XX. It plays fine for me using this arrangement...
Merry Christmas and Happy Hannukah to ALL at the CAC. Thanks to all for the help over the past year, but more importantly, thanks for all the fellowship and friendship. Chuck
You've got a pretty good start. As others have said, DON'T buy cheap tools. Those "Taiwan Specials" at Carlisle are what I call disposable, cast wrenches, crappy sockets, etc., use 'em once and toss 'em away.
I keep a CHEAP socket set in each car....one of those Taiwan sets that you buy for...
I have mainly Craftsman tools. I still have one ORIGINAL set that I bought when I was a teenager. It was a 1/2, 3/8, 1/4 inch drive 12 point socket set, and a set of box/open wrenches.
Since then, I've gotten a lot more sets. I use mainly 6 point sockets now. You can't beat Craftsman...
My daughter graduated from the University of Delaware in 1992. She's a "Fightin' Blue Hen" alumni. :) She LOVED the school. LOTS to offer. It's big enough, yet small enough.
They've had some GREAT football teams over the past years. Hope your daughter likes it too. chuck
I use my glass beader. For bolts, get a piece of cardboard. Punch holes in the cardboard using a Phillips head screwdriver. Push the bolts through these holes. Glass bead away on the heads and sides.
Run a die over the threads when you're done.
For nuts, washers, etc., I string them on...
The idea of tightening the 4 bolts with the car "on the ground" makes sense. When you put on the spring, the "arch" created when you put on the bracket needs to be compressed.
If you try to tighten the 4 bolts with no load on the spring, you're really trying to compress the spring. You need...
Looks REALLY nice, Barry. It'll fire up, don't worry.
Be careful tightening the Tower style clamps on the radiator hoses. Don't over tighten them.
Also, on your valve cover...I seem to recall that when we beaded them, one had a slight crack near one of the bolt holes. Chuck
I can't tell you what the torque numbers are without looking them up in the AIM, but here's the trick.
With the car in the air, install the spring and tighten the 4 bolts under the diff "just snug".
Take the car off the jack stands and let the weight of the car settle the spring. THEN...
Barry. They're "twist shank" rivets, NOT peened over rivets. If you work on them, they "SHOULD" come out relatively easily. Sounds like you have one out already. Chuck
When Barry used my glass beader, I advised him to remove the metal pan under the intake. :)
That being said, he "blew it", tanked it in solvent, blew it again, etc. I think it should be OK. Chuck
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