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Sounds like you are getting it in good shape. I would bump the advance to 36* at 3,000. If it pings, back it down. As for the vacuum, if you mean 12* to 22* at idle, yes. They generally can add 16* overall.

Starting at the furthest from the master is correct. Bleeding the outer than inner bleeder on a single unit makes no sense to me.

"I recently installed a Pertronix unit." I assumed it was new and functioning unit. My point is that total advance , with the correct curve, is more important than base timing. Chevy engines were designed to operate optimally at this setting. Adding up to 16* vacuum advance under no load...

Yep;)

Base timing is irrelevant. Set it to 36* with vacuum advance plugged at 3,000 RPM or so. Set this 36* as max, and let the base fall where it may.

Dumb.;)

Anybodys guess Cris. Maybe the loosened oil/grease dripped down to a low point on that plug wire.;shrug

I have two suggestions. Change the timing chain to a true roller while you have it apart. (Stock ones are crap) Drop the oil pan, and install a Fel-pro 1 piece gasket. You won't regret doing either.;)

:beer:beer:beer:beer:beer

Unplug the sender. If gauge goes to E, it's the sender. You just have to drop the tank. Fetch your build sheet while your there.

Hook up to the green test connector and ground.

They both have advantages and disadvantages. I went with the 700-R because parts/kits are more common.

Good point. In Kalifornia you must do this.

I am not surprised. I am not aware of any insurence company that will cover a race event.

Simple test. Unplug the 4 pin harness going to the tranny. Go for a drive. See if it improves/symptoms go away. It will not hurt a thing. It WILL set a code. Ignore it.;)

Very well then. I would check calibration first. The speedo drive gears should match the odometer. The speedo head is then calibrated to match the odometer. The VSS inside the head should then match the actual reading. The L/U is regulated by the VSS, and enabled by the high speed switch in the...

Buy the shop manual. It will answer all this and more.:)

I have asked TimAT to answer specifically. I know they had alot of changes/improvements by '89. As for dollars, by the time you buy a GOOD unit outright, shorten the driveshaft, change the crossmember, modify the shifter, change the TV cable and bracket, BUY a T/C, and fluid, yada, yada, your...

Nothing. They did that when new.

The single largest thing without breaking the bank, rebuild that tired old diffy, and put in 3.73 gears. $1,000. Then, change the tranny to a 89 700-R. $2,000. This will make it perform better than any other mod, and you won't even touch the engine. If you do later, it will still help. As Cris...