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looking back at your previous post, you have a very conservative cam of 213/219 @ 0.050" lift. correct me if i'm wrong, but you also have 882 heads?? thoses heads are horrible for performance, poor flow and weak castings that tend to crack. i would run some 180cc or 190cc AFR aluminum heads with...

Jerry, your welcome, even though i didn't realy do anything. glad everything went smooth!! hope you enjoy the new ride. i have to put mine away for the year, it started snowing today. oh well, only a month before snowmachine season!! talk with you later, Brian.

Evo, to answer your question about building a junkyard motor, it is cheaper. most guys that build their own motor, use better internals than what is offered in crates. the cost is the usually the same for a better product minus the warrenty. but building clone motors of crates, you can...

that's weird, i have the exact opposite opinion. when i bought my car it had Dunlops. they squeeled in corners and spun like crazy off the line. installed the BFG Radial TA's and increased cornering and linerar traction. maybe it has something to do with ambient temp since i'm in Alaska. not...

Jack, i'll PM you to avoid hyjacking the thread. Jim, if you want the info, PM or email me and i'll be glad to pass it on.

build a 406. you should be able to find a 400 sb at the junk yards for about $300. get the lower end rebuilt with all forged parts, machine work and assembled for around $3000. spend another $1200 on a good set of aluminum heads, $300 for intake and distributor. maybe $500 for misc parts and...

you should have the black poly bushings, they have graphite in them and don't squeek. i used a little graphite engine assembly lube just to get the bushings to slide in place a little easier for assembly. haven't lubed them since, and she hasn't squeeked in four summers. for the softer ride...

sounds good, feel free to email me anytime.

running a metal supply line from the pump to the carb is a really good idea. the glass filter is a fire trap!! several Vettes have met their fate from rubber hoses and glass filters. if you're going to run rubber line from the pump to carb, change it every year and use a metal filter.

Jerry, the smart struts work by lowering the mount height of the strut near the differential. this gives them the same angle as the rear half shaft. that keeps the rear camber from changing thru the suspension travel. keeping the tire perpendicular to road keeps more tire on the ground for...

i don't have insulation on mine and no problems for six years.

i have the same kit on my '77 and love it!! i an sold on its performance and flexibility. you can adjust the ride height and spring rate independantly from eachother. it rides great and handles awesome, you won't be disappointed. Brian.

your intank pickup filter is probably clogged with trash.

you need a heat shield or mini starter. the mini's work well, but cost a bit more. heat shields are a bandaid on the problem when you have headers. you might get away with heat wrapping the headers and installing a good heat shield, but i would just get a mini starter and end all your troubles.

it was a replacement pully on the old original A/C pump. i didn't use the A/C part, living in Alaska you just need to roll the window down for cool air. sorry i can't find the part number anywhere. give Summit or March a call, they should be able to get you a better idea of exactly what you...

i put a March set-up on mine a couple years ago. it ran $550 from Summit Racing. a little more expensive than a transplant GM system, but looks a whole lot better. the P/S cap can be a pain to remove though, other than that it uses all your existing accs. i talked to the tech guy at Summit, and...

as stated, play with what you have then think about mods. a shift kit is nice, but i'd get a stall converter instead. don't go for a run of the mill cheapy either, you're wasting time, money and HP. go with a highend unit like Yank Performance. the effecientcy numbers are higher and your tranny...

Marc, not trying to bum you out, but it took me three bleedings to get mine working good. i bleed mine in the suggested order, LR - RR - LF - RF. start with the inside bleeder first, then do the outside for each wheel. i found having a helping foot to pump the system with pressure before...

Marc, the check valve is the little plastic thing that your hose hooks to on the vacuum booster. you can pull it out and do the mouth test to see if it works right. if not, they are about two bucks at NAPA or anyother parts place. my rubber grommet was dry rotted and playing havic with...

you don't need anything new, just to re-stab the distributor. sounds like someone stabbed it a tooth off. pull you dist cap and remove the lock-down fork. slowly lift the distributor and play close attention to the position of the rotor. the rotor will turn as you lift the distributor. lift it...