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just run it T-ed into the brake booster line. all the PCV needs is direct manifold vac. it should not effect your tranny or distributor vac, unless you have a huge vac leak from blown/missing seals in the motor.

i LOVE my VB&P perf plus system!!!! it rides great and handles awesome. almost everyone that has ridden in the car has complimented on the way it rides and handles. also i noticed that VB&P has put the system on sale for CAC members. if you have the money buy it, you won't regret it.

as said, your brakes need more bleeding. i have 9 inches of vac at idle with motor and the brakes and lights work, not great but they work. also check that your check valve on the vac booster is working and not leaking. 15 inches of vac is more than enough to operate the lights and brakes.

do you still have the stock harmonic balancer?? if so it sounds like the outter ring may have slipped. try setting your timing using a vacuum guage. set it with a hot engine and the vac advance disconnected and plugged. shoot for maximum vac at idle, it should be the best timing for that...

have you checked your wheel bearings, trailing arm bushings, u-joints and yoke play in the rear end?? i am will to bet that the wheel bearing is loose and when you hit the brakes it "snaps" the tire into alignment. also check that your camber rods are tight and the bushings in good order. the...

just get an electronic choke for your Q-jet. all you have to do is run a wire to "keyed hot" power source. most people usually run it to the ACC power circuit.

just put a little bend in the tube (the inserted section) when it is half way into the block. you may need to tap on the stop ridge with a screw driver to get it all the way in the block, but it should not come out again.

i am pretty sure it's blue.

i installed an Eliminator 10 from Yank Converters in my car. it is a 3800 stall that was built perfectly to match my chassis set-up and engine output. the guys at Yank are super professional, and it took just two weeks to build and ship to Alaska! i had a B&M 2400 stall in my car, it hooked good...

AFR's are not $2k, they run about $1100. Edlebrocks are about the same price, unless you find a smoking deal plan on $950-$1100. the AFR's are fare better heads. Edelbrock just copies GM's Vortec design anyway. the stock heads on your motor are thin casting big chamber heads that will crack if...

i would go with 0.030" over pistons, more common and a few bucks cheaper. what's your budget?? and how much power do you want?? a good set of heads will really wake up your motor. Vortecs are alright, but with the added cost of required new style intake, you can get a better set of heads that...

pull the plug wires from the distributor and save yourself some burnt fingers. make sure to used insulated pliers or you might get shocked. best thing is to remove a wire and then start the car, unless you like tazers. also if the spark trick does not zero your problem in, pull the valve covers...

Wayne, you got it, Alaska is turning into Berkley faster than i care to admitt. currently the three big cities (Anchorage, Fairbanks and Juneau) have emmisions tests. but it won't be long and the rest of the state will follow suit. all that free love is starting to put a hurt on everyone's...

Joe, if you're looking for headers, you'll need all new exhaust to the mufflers. if you need a y-pipe for the stock manifolds, that's a different story. i assume your flapper valve is broken and the gate has dropped down or the actuator is stuck and is blocking flow. when i had factory...

these are GM's answer to making a 454 small block. http://www.paceparts.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=135036 http://www.paceparts.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=22933 i've heard of guys that run 4.25" cranks with no problems and still use a big circle base cam. shipping is...

check your mechanical advance under the cap. it may be rusted up and sticking.

this is what you need, it'll make life much better. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=PRO%2D66789&N=4294925139+4294925138+4294859056&autoview=sku

you nailed the problem, cool water sitting around the t-stat and keeping it closed. easiest fix is to pull your t-stat and drill a 1/8" hole in the plate. this will allow a small amount of flow to move heat to the t-stat. constant flow = more evenly distributed heat. hope this helps, Brian.

i would run the fluid damper. two reasons why. it has better dampening effects than stock units, and most importantly it will not slip the outter ring and give you false timing readings. as for ignitions, i run an MSD pro-billet with 6AL. there are all kinds to choose from and it's up to you...

i went with the VB&P perf plus system. i love it! super easy to install and the car is like new. i highly recommend the swap, you'll love it. clearence was no problem with mine. the spring runs under the frame crossmember, but my oil pan hangs lower than the spring anyway. Brian