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have you replaced your spark plugs?? i have had problems in the past with plugs that crack the insulator and misfire at higher rpm. nitrous has a bad habit of blowing out spark, you need a smaller plug gap. i would put in some new spark plugs and gap them at .030". if that cures your problem...

Jack, don't forget pictures and new tires!!! ope the build goes smooth, Brian.

hey fellas, i just insalled my new Yank converter today and am very impressed! i got the Eliminator 10 with 3800 stall. the guys at Yank got all my info correct and the converter was perfect. the only problem is traction has gone the way of the Dodo bird. with the 3.70 rear gear and my old...

the alt and ac units stick up higher on the truck brackets. most hi-rise hoods won't clear them because the motor is wider than the raised section of hood. the v-belt brackets off a passenger car should be good. if you want a serpintine set-up, several companies make nice brackets. i went with...

i would get some old valve cover from a junk yard, cost you next to nothing. cut the top out so you can reach the adjusting nuts. as stated, set them at 1/2 - 3/4 turns from clacking with the motor warm and running. the cover will keep the splashing oil under control as long as you don't rev the...

yard the old stuff and build a fun motor!! i love my 400sb. no need to go as crazy with the build as i did. the difference between a 350 and a 383 is almost the same jump as a 383 to a 400. go with the long rods, 6.0" work the best. .030" overbore pistons are more common than .020". is the block...

try this guy, his name is Make Stark. he hooked me up with some really good pricing on my parts and is very easy to deal with. he may have a set or two sitting around with matching ported intake. http://www.cfmperformance.com/cfmhome.htmBrian.

i would cover the the floor pan on the driver's side with heat shield material. the passenger's side already has the metal heat shield on it. it is not necessary to shield the driver's side, just keeps tons of excess heat off your feet. i ran mine without the shielding for a couple months, it...

depends on use of a cat. if you have smog-cop issues, run them down the right side and through a dual in, dual out cat. this should get you past the inspection guys. if you can, run down each side. it will be more balanced from bank to bank, but the selling point is it's cheaper to go old...

Ron, you want a light rear spring for weight transfer. go with a 300 adjustible glass spring. the VB&P dual mount is rated at 300, 310, 330 & 360 pounds depending on what hole you mount the hangers from. as for 3" out the back, you may want sidepipes. 3" is hard to get clearence under the...

Norval, what if you pulled the spindle out and and jigged it up in a milling machine?? i think this would allow you to turn the hub and machine out the run-out from a horizontal position. just a thought, for a very interesting and tough question. Brian

Rob, i have the same pump you are considdering, but it's rated at 140 gpm and 11-14psi. it feeds 600hp pretty good. with no return line you are subject to heating of the fuel in the pump and line. this causes vapor lock and boiling of fuel in the float bowls. i have seen this first hand with...

i like small block 400s. they are a little hard to find and have a few quarks to attend to, but the rewards are well worth the extra trouble. i would look around for a 400 two bolt main block. check junk yards and old-timer motor shops. the sixties and early seventies motor head dudes usually...

your plan is good, but a little expensive for your goal. i like the GV overdrive with TH-400, but since you are planning on keeping hp down around 400 you may want to considder the 200R4 tranny. it will save you about a grand, give you four forward gears and is a direct bolt in swap. as for...

be carefull drinking and wrenching, that's how bubba gets started.

Bill, the leak-down test i use is a crude one just for troubleshooting. i would put the #3 hole on the compression stroke, easily verified by popping the distributor cap and seeing the rotor pointed at the #3 terminal. set it so it is before the the terminal, about 3/4's the way from the #4...

it SO depends on the internals of the motor. most crate engines are not built to live at higher HP then they come as. a 330 HO motor will come apart if you push it much over 400 HP. basically motor builders are getting close to the ragged edge when you look at the dependability of a build. some...

Hib, not meaning to be arguementative, but my view is a little different. since it is a high milage motor, the puffing on the PCV could be coming from all the cylinders combined. the leak down test is just to verify the path of the pressure loss. as stated earlier in the post, the possibility...

a new engine is good. but there might be something simple that is wrong. i have seen several old motors that have somehow aligned the ring gaps. this caused serious blowby and all the symtoms you describe. i would do the leak down on the #3 hole, it will tell where your compression is going and...

if the voltmeter is reading 17V, your voltage regulator is smoked. and that is probably what killed your battery. sounds like you found the problem though.