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Yes I've successfully done conversion. No I'm not an A/C expert ... I cannot diagnose such a broad symptom from afar (why there's no freon in a long-idle car). Yes it's possible the leak is VERY small (from sitting so long) ... maybe you should have a shop pull a deep vacuum on the system and...

So ... result is a pricey, cramped, caddy-looking thing with quirky handling. But hey, it takes all kinds ... I'm rather quirky too ... 'though it ain't for me.

R-12 is restricted use ... but you can find R-12 on ebay ... and it's EXPEN$IVE! If you need a recharge ... that means you have a leak ... small or big. No way I'd recharge a leaker w/ R-12 ... but I'd try it w/ much cheaper & readily available R-134a. Get the R-134a conversion kit & have at it...

First, check voltage at HEI dist cap's "BAT" terminal just as suggested above. If you're down on power there ... follow that resistor wire back to harness' bulkhead connector at firewall ... you can extract that resistor wire out of bulkhead connector and replace with a stranded 10g or 12g wire...

Suggest no one should switch to synthetic on a ten-year-old 116K mile motor. Your own truck experience should've driven the lesson home. And don't try RotellaT 15W-40 in the 4.6 lincoln ... we have two 98 TC w/4.6 ... I tried it and it's too heavy and tends to degrade emission components. Simply...

I'm not mikey ... but YES that wire goes to coil +. And your coil is probably OK. Your 73 had points when OE ... and the "run" wire that ran to coil + is a resistor wire that reduced the voltage ... the other "start" wire was full 12v to coil+ but it's only hot while starter motor is cranking...

Don't just look at em or wiggle em ... pull the battery terminals loose from batt ... inspect closely ... if OK, tighten em up. I had a car doing the same thing ... tried tightening the centerbolt terminals ... felt tight ... no good ... took em loose ... bolts were not threading in straight ...

Do you want a cam that'll work with what you have now? ... or with what you hope to have later? ... it matters. It's also important to know your motor-driveline specs ... not a guess based on someone else's guess or what a "motivated" seller might claim in the course talking up a car. If your...

355ci, modern alum heads, about 10:1 CR and SP CS1062R cam ... with that & the tune up help from the others, that motor probably pulls better numbers than the original L46 while being street-friendly & more fun.

I realize this may be bit late ... but I just noticed this coil issue. What you heard about coil on side affecting its oil level & it getting too hot ... VERY TRUE! You must not lay an oil-filled coil (Blaster 2) on its side ... it will overheat & become weak ... and eventually burn up. Do mount...

Around here ... mid grade is 89 ... that's probably a typo. Moreover, mid grade 89 should work in alum head 10.3CR 383 w/XE274 ... that cam's 230* @ 0.050" duration is bleeding-off some static CR.

Egg crates (or ice trays) are OE on 70, 71 & 72 ... it'd take MUCH work to fit them into another year model ... and they tend to be rather pricey to acquire. Suggest a retrofit is impractical. 68 & 69 have vertical gills (that's gill, not grille) ... some have shiney inserts. 73 thru 82 have...

I dunno ... but it'd probably be a bunch ... and ... since the serial number won't be right on pad ... it still won't be numbers matching ... even if you fake the stamped numbers an expert can tell. Other than seeking a possible rebate from seller for possible misrepresentation, I suggest you...

Short pad don't bode well for original 1970 ... but I agree w/JZ ... short pad can't be a '70. Maybe it don't have very high CR either. Pull the VCs ... what are its head casting #'s & date codes? *edit* short pad w/ no numbers ... it's probably a later block that's been decked.

First, describe your 1980 L82 engine ... other than routine tuneup stuff, detail any/all changes-modifications to engine/exhaust from what it was when it was delivered new. Then, tell us which transmission it has (and if it has been modified) and tell us which rear axle gear ratio it has...

Context ... please ... context ... what I wrote was: The 110 racegas does make more power but not one bit more mileage than pump gas ... if I'd advanced the timing for racegas it'd probably made more mileage ... but I knew that'd be the only racegas during the 900+ mile trip home. The car was...

Most avgas is about 100 ... most is unleaded (you really don't need lead) ... most airstrips have phased out leaded ... they'll tell you/show you what theirs is ... go there with a 5 gal can ... once they know you're not there to bust them they may or may not let you fill directly ... 5gal 100 +...

We don't see ads for bumper vettes in our local paper too often ... I have NO idea who it is or anything about it ... in today's (Sunday 6/09/06) Florence SC paper: Chevy, '71 Corvette, LS5 454, 4speed, fully loaded, bright red, $22,000 OBO (843) 662-8520.

Dunno if you have a Holley or Demon carb ... if so ... when it popped out the carb ... that pop may've blown a powervalve ... & that alone'll make it run crappy. 10.67:1 CR ... pings on 93 oct ... does 383 have iron or alum heads?

Dunno how often you need to fill up? You can tank up at local airport w/ avgas ... or ... do same at local racetrack ... or buy 110 racefuel in 5gal or 55 gal drums ... add only what you need to pump prem. Dunno what toluene goes for $... but may not be so readily available anyway ... and a...