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I got SS Borla XPs locally for about $60 each. Lifetime warrenty

I never used a digital dwell meter, but the pink/black wire is 12v from the gauges fuse, the blu wire is the signal side. Connect the meter to the blu wire and any switched 12v line or across the solenoid and you should get your reading

Cold air is more dense and improves the fuel/Air charge density into the combustion chamber, simple as that

Thats pretty common. Have you checked to make sure all 4 springs are in place on both sides? What do the seals look like on the other actuator? Swap the relays around and see what it does. Did you do a full rebuild? There may be some binding in the pins for the clevises, pull em and grease em

I'll stick with my original diagnosis. If after 20 minutes of idling the choke is full open thats good, but you still have not achieved the heat soaked condition you will after a 20 minute drive and a 10 or 15 minute sit. Your on the right track tho

Agreed, thats why I said to see if the choke is full open. If its not it will cause the flooding issue and the way to start a flooded motor is hold the throttle full open

Well, you need to know for sure that the fuel IS boiling out of the carb, or disapearing from the carb for whatever reason. Next time out, before restarting when it usually does not start, pull the air cleaner off and look at the carb, see if the choke is all the way open. If it is then look...

Bud, that avatar is funny

Haven't seen one here, but there is one over there http://forums.corvetteforum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=138

Wow, never seen a cam break. Only thing I can think of that would do that is if a cam bearing seized. If the car is a numbers car, I would say start by trying to rebuild it. Otherwise a crate motor is called for.

Welcome aboard. Last time I looked into the hypertech chip all it did was change the timing ans idle mix at WOT a bit. I believe it also had some improvement to the dwell. But for the hundred odd bucs I would say No. For a few more $$ you would get more bang with duals

well, to start with. Do you know that the 2 terminals on the motor 1 is up and 1 is down and it gets ground thru the case? If, so, ok. You might be able to get a hand in there and remove the nuts on the lower window track, remove the glass that way. Removing the track retainer bolts will get...

Any ideas where to find distributor parts for my 81? The connectors inside crumbled when I took it apart. Thanks

;LOLNope. I am pretty sure thats part no 00001 on the corvette assembly line. Everything else gets bolted on around it

Kids are pretty cool about that

Like I posted above, the gauge and the sender are matched by a color coded ballance resistor. You probably have the wrong combination Your sender was most likely changed at some point and they put in the wrong one

Man, I have never seen parts for the seat actuator assembly, just the whole thing Good Luck Try ZIP and docrebuild just for grins

So I guess the basic question is Does Everything work? If so, then no, no more tests to do.

sulfation is THE primary cause for battery failure. Its the formation of chrystals on the surface of the plates, which destroys the plate. Todays batteries have very thin plates so there is no fixing it like you could with old ones (70's and older) Sulfation happens when the electrolyte goes...

#1, corvette gauges are notorious for being WAY off on calibration. The gauge may say 220 but in actuality the engine can be running 195 #2, you need to KNOW what the actual temp is, for $20 or $30 you can get an good IR lasergun to tell you exactly what the temp is. Measure at the sensor same...