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A 94 should be a bit softer than 87. Enough things were done to the car to improve it by that year, no matter the options. Torque ratings should be roughly the same, only HP is different, but that doesnt affect ride quality.

I have used all of the above, 5w, 10w and 15w50. I'm using the 15w now, since its so ridiculously hot down here, it wont hurt anything and I like the high pressures. If I lived in PA, id use 10w or 5w depending on how much its driven in winter.

Do not ever wash an LT1 with a pressure washer, thats just stupid. I wouldnt do it on an 95-96 with vented opti's either.

I think mine is called a Polar White Youll have to check the Black Book for most of that info

Excess heat can cause delamination, thats why the stock Y-pipe has a heat shield on it. GM lost a few rear springs because of it in testing. But I've never heard of it actually happening to someone.

When you crank the car, it should jump to the mid 50's idling, and a hot idle will be in the high 20's-low 30s. When cruising around, anytime your foot is on the gas it needs to be over 50psi, and at full throttle it really needs to be about 60.

No you dont need a spacer for a 96, the 87's offset is different, thats why it needs one.

Only goodyears worth buying are the F1's. I have Kumho Ecsta Supra 712s and love them, but I like Firestone SZ50's even better.

They should fit.

5.5-6 inches is the stock ride height.

Assuming the ECM timers have gone off, which varies for startup temp, it should be in closed loop at around 150-160. You can hook up a scanner and that will show the O2 going into closed loop also.

Yes, you should install a heat shield in either case. Preferably, you'd put some heatwrap or some type of insulation on anything that comes near the headers, like fuel and transmission fluid lines and wiring.

Oh yes, Ive seen it happen several times.

The coating is for heat reduction in the compartment, if you had uncoated they'll definitely fry a starter and theyll be hot for a long time, coated headers you can touch after a hour or two. It also protects against rust, and it looks good.

You shouldve had about 205-210 and around 300-310rwtq bone stock 20% is too high, even for the A4, its more like 17-18% There is some variance between different chassis dyno's, Mustang and dynojet give very different numbers and any 2 of either will give different numbers, but its the track...

Clunking sounds when going into gear, from the rear end, are likely worn U-joints. Some slight clunking is normal, but if it becomes a real jolt, check the joints. You should replace all of them if any are bad, theyre about $20-25 each, and you should ONLY GET SPICER COLD FORGED joints. Theyre...

The sending unit and the switch are different things. You want the sending unit as well, its a big thing that kinda looks like a fuel filter, the switch is smaller.

They were advertised at about 150-155mph. I would never attempt that though.

I dont like Hedman quality. Hooker 2149 or 2151 (depending on whether you want the AIR piping), or the TPiS unit are both good, yet expensive with the ceramic coating. Lingenfelter no longer makes headers for us, but you may find a set on ebay.

I run 35psi cold, in my Kumho 712s. 30 or lower is better for traction at the track, but low for street driving. DO NOT run 50psi.