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Drive it till the problem reappears. The suck the old fuel out of the tank and put it in some daily disposable car you have on the driveway. After that put 5 gallons new fuel in it you have in the garage, drive to the fuelstation and fill her up. Problem solved at least for the first 3/4 tank ;)...

I didn't know admitting my own mistakes would grant me 3 likes... :chuckle And the trouble is not over. I ordered a new switch (think the old one is still fine I think but normally I'm to lazy to send it back). But now the new problem. I didn't remove the speedo cluster and removed the...

Sound to me like the mixture is way rich! You need to change the choke valve opening without change idle fuel or mixture screws. The thing you need and Lars's papers on Q-jet adjustments! All you need to know is in there! :) Greetings Peter

It isn't that bad (compared to a dead mouse somewhere). But first try the other options! Greetings Peter

And finally my own mistake! I switched the vacuumlines at the switch and the sissing sound stopped and the lights pup up and go down as they should! Thanks everybody :) Greetings Peter

I need to look it up but don't know if I still have it. The other way around. You can order new wire and the connectors so you could always fab one your own. Greetings Peter

Nice to see but only for the lucky few. Hopefully she'll find a good new home :) Greetings Peter

If your sure its comming from inside the HVAC system I think removing the dash will be the easiest way to do the job right (sorry for that). Of course there is a way around the dash but leave it in place and it is going to take you hours and hours to work around in the end you'll still need to...

I agree with mr. Black81 :) Greetings Peter

You're right! My bad, was thinking the other way around. But good think you found the problem and fixed it! :) Greetings Peter

Message received loud en clear Jim! :Silly:happyanim: Greetings Peter

And here the update. It was even more then just the headlight switch... A vacuumline was disconnected at the passenger headlight relay. When I reconnected the vacuumline the top part of the relay came apart (I had rebuild them one year before but I think the solderwork wasn't great because it...

I have to agree with Bill. You have to eliminate after the other. As the dash lights are lights connected in serie (not parallel) you can take out one bulb from an entire system and the system wouldn't work. I would almost say that 9 out of the 10 the pastic wiringharness behind the cluster have...

If you could do that, great! The number is: 17081218 (E4ME Rochester). I was thinking about this. First setting idle rpm in drive when hot. Checking A/F when driving at constant speed (hot) and adjust. Checking WOT and adjusting sec. valve opening and rods. Checking acc pump (and sec. valve...

I'll test it by bypassing the headlight switch today and blocking both vacuumlines. This should have the same effect as opening and closing the headlight doors. :) Greetings Peter

I found the problem and solved it, thanks to Gerry and Antz! :upthumbs Changed the wide band back to the heated narrowband and everything is working perfectly! Thanks for thinking with me :) Greetings Peter

I think I'm one step closer! When I turn the engine off I could hear a sissing sound from under the dash. Traced it back to the headlight switch, couldn't hold vacuum anymore. Tried to fix it with some grease in it and retensioning the spring inside but no luck. So I'll just order a new switch...

I'll measure the resistance in the isolated wire to the ECM and by the body ground to the ECM tomorrow, but as you say I also think it doesn't make a difference. Thanks for the info :) Greetings Peter

I'll try it tomorrow! Greetings Peter

Yep I still have it and the wiring is already adapted to be a plug and play with the zr1 sensor. The thing that i think about right now. The OEM sensor is a two wire with a high ref input to the ecm and a low ref input. But the low ref sensor is a isolated ground return connected. The 3 wire...