Can't help directly, but a distributor rebuild shouldn't be a challenge for most electrical shops, it's primarily a function of getting the shaft bushing and end-play clearances correct, setting up the advance curve by using the correct springs/weights and vacuum can, and replacing the oil pump...
I haven't personally done this job, but I read a lot about it both in the manual and on the various web forums; I've forgotten the details, but I remember that it's a risky job for a novice to attempt, at best.
Without a lot of fancy tool$, you have to set the proper tolerances by trial &...
I agree that a photo of the stamp pad is needed, because some things just don't seem correct. Does not appear to be a Corvette stamping, possibly a 64 powerglide Chevelle.
I don't specialize in Corvette emblems, but I do have a number of automobile
emblems (collected as souvenirs at various swap meets) that I mounted on an old painted (wire mesh) Ford Model A grill guard that I used to have hanging on a wall in my bedroom.
I might suggest that an old Corvette...
I agree.... even if it were non-vented it would be much more likely to just stop flowing gasoline to the carb than to damage your tank. Fill the tank and try it for a half-tank or so of gasoline, then listen for a very noticeable whoosh of sucking air as you twist the cap open, like opening a...
My concern would be why is there no PCV setup? I'm not an expert, but I think there's supposed to be one. If there's no road draft tube and no PCV valve and the oil filler tube is sealed with a cap, where did you expect the cylinder blow-by pressure to go?
Be careful. If you aren't removing the pan, the tap may leave metal shavings behind. At least stuff an oil-dampened cloth topped by some heavy grease or something down inside the hole first to catch shavings and then pull it out afterward. Perhaps an ez-out would be a better choice, as it...
Do you have the original engine in your car? My understanding is that the solid lifter engines (340 and 360hp) have a pan that holds an extra quart of oil, and extends downwards a bit more in the front section (than the 250 and 300 hp hydraulic lifter engines), and will/may cause interference...
I'm not sure I correctly understand your question.
The link you provided shows a Corvette body being stripped. You would not ever want to use sand to blast fiberglass, since it would be too aggressive and badly scar the surface; same with glass beads; soda media is much milder and is commonly...
Here's some advice on motor hp....
http://tinyurl.com/2haeva
Basically, the larger and wider the buffs you use, the more power you need and the costlier the motor; smaller buffs and/or less width don't need as much power and the motor costs less, but they don't get the job done as fast...
You didn't mention if you're going for price or quality. If it's price and you don't plan to do a lot of it,
maybe this would do the trick for you:
http://tinyurl.com/2btsmo
Or here are more choices in a higher price range:
http://tinyurl.com/ysuckp
I've not done much metal buffing, but my...
Bob, I've been following along, but now I'm a bit confused... your pictures show an electric fan attached to the radiator. Looks like that could be a solid hub & fan in the top pic, but no signs of a mechanical fan in the other 2 pics... did you remove the mechanical hub & fan to allow a better...
Maybe not THAT unique. I installed a T-10 from a 62 in my 63 (I did it myself in late 1963, replacing the original 3-speed tranny, so I know the bellhousing was original)
2-tone paint was an option costing $16.15; approx 1/3 of 1961 Corvettes were 2-tone. Only white or silver coves were standard options (some people claim anything was available if you were willing to pay the price, but I doubt that).
Fawn interior was available with black, white, fawn, or maroon...
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