I'm not positive, but I think you can adjust the male (hood-attached) shaped "bolt" a bit by loosening a lock nut near the underhood surface and unscrewing the bolt, then locking the nut again. It may be that the shaped pin is just not extending quite enough to be captured by the female latch...
Well, DUH, now I notice that you said you only wanted to gain clearance on the driver's side (somehow I was thinking you needed to get more clearance on both sides... I need to do a better job of reading the questions). So it appears Ken has the correct solution: if the entire radiator support...
This may be a dumb question, and I'm no expert on Corvette bodywork, but isn't adding shims between the core support and the inner fender doing exactly what you say you don't want to do ("forcing the inner fenders apart")? Since the core support is a solid metal piece, it is not going to "give"...
Sounds like the correct plan to me. Consider having the shop buff out the rest of the car (or at least the top of the front end) when he does the hood, which might enhance the match. Ask the price of including painting the top of the front end, it may not cost nearly as much as you think, and...
Did you ask that first shop what he recommends doing/using, or did you just tell him you intended to order the (lacquer) paint for him to spray?
The comment about whether the color "when we get the new paint" will match perfectly makes me think you intend to order lacquer for the job. In that...
I don't have a C1 to look at, but from catalogs, etc, it would appear to me that the expansion tank bracket is supposed to be attached via the 2 center-port bolts on the exhaust manifold. I suspect the bolts on the headers go into a relatively thin plate, utilizing shorter-than-stock bolts...
Good point, Terry, I assumed he meant it was popping at the tailpipe... but maybe he didn't mean that, so it could just be a leak between the head and the manifold at one of the exhaust ports.
Sure, here's links to one vendor, and I'm sure others carry them:
http://www.madvet.com/shop?frame=1.244.5909
http://www.madvet.com/shop?frame=1.244.5910
Here's a listing from the Hedman website:
http://www.hedman.com/pages/hedders/pass-chevy.html#corvette
Here's a site where you...
#3829387 would be used for your car if it had power steering.
I'm not positive of correct finish, I would assume semi-gloss black. I doubt the same part number would be painted differently for other applications. Interestingly, the parts manual says 3858533 is stamped "3766987", so maybe this...
In looking at a parts manual, I came up with these (we didn't agree on the alternator pulley):
water pump 3770245
crankshaft 3858533
alternator 3871242
They were originally one piece (no brass fitting under the door). It's virtually impossible to replace that line (in one piece) without removing the body; apparently someone replaced the original, utilizing a splice to allow the installation of each part separately.
Can we assume the wheel lugs were tight, you checked to see if one wheel was hotter to the touch than the rest, and that while you had the car jacked up you tried to wiggle the wheel & tire, and you closely inspected the tire and spun the wheel to see if it spins freely...
Does the generator...
Here's a reply to the same question you are asking... I just dug it out of the NCRS archives (so don't ask ME what it means!):
PPG: US GOVERNMENT WHITE DDL829 (1 GALLON -CUMULATIVE, PART)
Tinting information for US Government (Polo) White:
DMA311 WHITE ------ 4430.8 --- 4430.8...
I can only give you the original codes from Noland Adams' book:
Rinshed Mason L23W001 or DuPont 253-53082
I've also seen it listed as DuPont 57758
Here's the closest I could find on the internet (they don't have Corvette chips from that era)...
My thoughts:
A bad valve seal is more likely than rings, but it could just be a bad plug or even a blocked oil drainage hole in the head. There are ways to find out. Check this link for a description of a leak-down test. You can do one yourself, or have a shop do a diagnosis for you.
If you...
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