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Check your local body shop supply stores, they might have a source. If that doesn't work, let us know, maybe someone down here can ship a can up there!

Thanks, I'm glad the information is helpful! The serpentine set up came out of a bone yard, off of a 92 S10 pickup with a V6. You can get them from most bone yards with the alt, a/c comp and PWS pump for about $200. I got one off a pick up because they don't have an air pump mount under the...

Agreed. Compression gives you more "Bang" for the buck so to speak. :)

That's an electric gauge, and sending unit, clean the connection first, they tend to get dirty where they are.

I agree with sharkcar71. The Edelbrock isn't operating correctly. Also, like he said, it's a square bore carb, you're likely to get better economy (and performance IMHO) with a Q-Jet. If you can find a used one, the kits aren't expensive and their easy to rebuild, if you follow the...

Stick with the BB. If you change to "Modern Technology", you'll have a whole host of issues to deal with. From mounting the accessories to getting your tach to work. The BB can provide you (and your cousins) all the performance you'll ever need, with less cost, less time and much less hassle...

Thanks that was fun, I shared it with a good freind of mine who's a hard over Ford guy....I did change the third line a bit for him though..."Wasn't a trace of an Audi a Ford or a Dodge"!

If parts from an 81 will fit, I have the entire system available....

You've probably already done this, but make sure one of the needle bearings in an end cap of the u-joint didn't fall out and is between the cap and the joint. It'll keep you from getting the clips is and make it seem like the joint is to big or the flange is to narrow.

Agreed, the engine has to be tuned properly. I'd also go to a Q-jet, small primaries and great secondaries. IMHO I much prefer the Q-jet to a holley or Edelbrock, but that's just me. I believe most people don't degree a cam when they install it. That's typically free horsepower left on the...

According to UPS, they want $250 to ship it. The box is 50x68x7 inches and weighs about 40lbs. If you're guy knows a better way to ship it, I'm all ears. I might be willing to meet somewhere in between if it makes sense, I'm in Jacksonville Fl. I'm thinking $200 for the hood?

There are two popular 4 speed OD transmission people are using in their C3s. The 2004r and the 7004r. The 200 is a big smaller physically, and seems to fit in the tunnel a bit better on some cars than the 700. The 1st and 2nd gears aren't as far apart on the 200 as they are on the 700 either...

I've got a good hood I don't need anymore if you need one.

My 81 in stock trim with the TH350 got right at 18mpg from Denver to Jacksonville. I know the 81 has a lock up torque converter and that helps economy. Not sure if the 73 had that, I doubt it. The newer 4 speed OD transmissions certainly offer the benefit of an additional gear and overdrive...

First your engine has to run at temp to run correctly. What ever thermostat GM calls for would the be correct temp, assuming the rest of the cooling system is in good shape. Second, all you have to do is make sure your coolant level is below what ever it is your pulling out (thermostat, temp...

No problem, let us know if that fixes it!

I'd suggest using one of the heavier primers (I used a fiber-fill type) for the first coat, then block sand it again. Under the circumstances (the DA) it's hard to see when your straight unless you have something to compare to. Hit it with the primer, then fog some dark colored spray paint...

The timer is behind the glove box. Pull the glove box insert out, don't waste time trying to reach around it. You'll find an orange plastic box about the size of a book of matches, usually taped to the wiring harness. That's it. I believe I jumped the white wires to get the lights to go on...

You know, funny as it sounds, I had the same problem with my 81, it turned out to be that damned courtesy light timer. I'd put a cut off switch at the battery because I couldn't find the drain. I'd almost had the entire dash apart and couldn't find the short. So, I "bypassed" the problem...

Really sorry to see that. If you have fan noises, you'll have to check the radiator support carfully, it may need replaced too. Plus the shroud and aux fan, possibly the fan itself. Basically, you'll have to get it apart to really know what's broken and can or can't be repaired. Looks like...