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GM Dealers have remote tester, typically they don't charge to tester them at parts counter. If you go to service dept they may. Not all remotes easily come apart so they can be checked out. Most of the pre-97 did not. Power door lock actuators can start to bind with age. It is not a corvette...

for fuel pressure to bleed off the way it does fuel pump check valve is not holding or pulsator, a diaphragm between fuel pump and sender to reduce noise,is leaking if present. Leaking injectors, or FPR not sealing. If exhaust is disconnected from front of cat converter or disconnected from...

Check fuel pressure regulator for leaking fuel out vacuum port. With drop in pressure fuel has to be going somewhere. If this has been going on for a while cat converter could be restricted.

My guess optispark if it's original. You really need to know what you don't have when it doesn't restart. You are losing : Fuel - no fuel pressure - fuel pump or relay, fuel pressure regulator leaking would be a hard start but check for fuel presence in hose. If there is fuel then you need to...

relay(s) are a good place to start. The early OEM relays were prone to failure. Be sure Foil in MAF foil/film is not covered with oil.

you need a brake booster. If it has brake fluid in it you will need master cylinder also.

If the idle corrected as you wiggled connector to disconnect IAC. I would check the connector for spread terminals or broken wire causing intermitent contact. You could rebuild or replace connector if you are in doubt.

Possible service block way back when there weren't crate engines. Fitted blocks(block with pistons) and short blocks were commonly used in warranty or dealer engine repairs. Service blocks were not stamped. You could check casting numbers and date codes on heads and intake they could give you...

Shouldn't but wheel back spacing is what you need to watch. 0 off set or 15x8 with 4" or 15x10 with 5" backspacing should work.

Alternator is grounded by brackets that hold it on engine. You could add one, but should not have to.

Sounds like a carb problem, or possible stale fuel is car sits a lot. Carb overhaul is likely.

You need access to a scanner to check TPS voltage along with input switches that might cause ECM to increase idle speed. TCC switch is unlikely cause.

Low idle make sure throttle body is clean of carbon build up. Check for vacuum leak. Base idle is adjustable in a sense. You could check min air rate and tps if they're out of spec could cause your problem

If you are still having trouble, if you have spark and no injector pulse. have ignition module tested.

Dtc 36 relates to MAF sensor burnoff. Sensor is supposed to clean itself when engine is turned off. Relays are a common cause of MAF sensor troubles. Also look at condition of "foil" in sensor sometimes spray contact cleaner can take the soot off. MAF can cause you troubles, check wiring and...

How does car run other than at idle? SES light ? Access to scanner? Anything repairs prior to this happenning?

Does parking brake work? Rear caliper piston is actuated by cable to apply. Piston is supposed to self adjust hydralically as brakes are applied. If it doesn't piston will be too far away normally to clamp pads to rotor and pedal can very low. Other posibility is brake pedal is not fully...

I suggest to check if there is 12 volts going to starter soleniod on purple wire. If there is starter failed, if not pass-key system, PRNDL or clutch switch, starter enable relay are all possible causes.

Not sure what to tell you about reading....it could be a communication error between scanner and car. If the MAF is bad a code should be set and SES light on. The car can : not start, hesistate, stumble on accel, stall, and /or surge. PCM is looking for voltage (Airflow) variations from sensor...

so it's not the car won't go it's the MAF reading doesn't change whith the throttle?