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I think so, but it's been a long time for me. Check it with your voltmeter with the fuse out. I would trace that wire to it's origin and put an inline fuse in it, and install the clip on the unfused side. You could overload your OEM fused circuit with that wire.

Enjoy your new ride!

I can' see how that wire could turn off our brake lights unless there is an aftermarket component installed like alarm, etc. Make sure that the fuse tap is installed on the fused side of the barrel and not the power side unless the wire has an inline fuse holder.

Do your front turn signals come on too, or just the brake lights? Does your car have 4 way flashers? Unplug the stoplight switch and see if the brake lights go off.

A clutch going out is usually slipping under a heavy load (engine rpm's are high with slow acceleration), jerking when using the clutch,abnormal noises etc. I don't think that is why they recommended a clutch, it is probably because the transmission and torque tube were out to do the rear main...

There should never be practically zero clearance between an armature and the field coils. Bad bushings, end plates, or mismatched parts inside the starter. Interesting solution. Kinda way old school NASCAR.

Yes, as long as you go from higher voltage to lower voltage and keep the amperage rating the same. Do not do the inverse (12V in a 32V system). I am curious why NAPA didn't have 12V fuses, and who they sell 32 fuses to.

How about some diagnosis? What is the battery voltage before and during the event.

Good job. Tube fuses can look good but have cracks in the middle, unsoldered ends from loose connection, or bad clip connection in the fuse box. Even micro fuses need to be checked with a test light for the same reasons.

Did you check all the fuses with a test light and probe all four pins/clips of the fuse? That is the only way to check the fuses properly.

I would make sure that the slave cylinder gets replaced, and the clutch system completely flushed, which is different than just installing a slave cylinder. I would also have them check the intake valley pan for leaks, as it is a known leak area that can leak oil down to the bell housing area...

Excellent, good work.

Is the vehicle in the shop getting the work done?

Is the burning smell the dealers diagnosis of the rear main seal leaking? I’m just wondering why they recommended a rear main seal replacement.

Are you see drops of oil on the ground where you park the vehicle?

Yes, the loop goes over the protruding linkage arm. There must also be power and ground to the coil with the engine running for the coil to open the choke butterfly and drop the fast idle linkage.

Did you pinch off the fuel return line when you checked the fuel pressure leak down? You need to get the CEL working for diagnosis unless you have the correct OBD1 tester.

You would need a adjustable advance timing light to check your total timing on the engine. As long as it starts, idles, and runs good, with no spark knock heard you are probably fine. Getting into fine tuning takes a lot time/patience/trial and error with carbs and distributers.

No problem, it’s been a long time for me too. Good luck with it.

Yes, would. I like to turn in the direction of the bolt being tightened.