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And have your battery properly load tested with a carbon pile tester, even if new. This is critical.

It sounds like you have a ground/connection problem. Trace your positive and negative cables and make sure they are clean and tight at both ends. The cables should not be able to twist by hand after tightening.

Check your coolant surge tank and see if it is low on fluid, or the sensor is unplugged or damaged.

Do one plug wire at a time and don't be in a hurry. I would hold off on the plug wires, unless they are damaged, until after installing the other parts and test driving.

Any stored codes in the PCM?

I would gap them at .045, and use synthetic engine oil or anti seize on the threads. I would also do the cap and rotor asap if they are OEM.

The drone was the mufflers, not the Y pipe. Hesitation is not the exhaust, since it works good now. If no CEL is on, keep driving it and note when it does it, rpm's and gear, does the tach jump around etc.? Then you can carry on diagnosis.

ALCL is correct also. Assembly Line Data Link or Assembly Line Communications Link.

Both replies are great information. I will add though to have ANY battery properly load tested with a carbon pile load tester, new or old. Extremely important, especially when dealing with a column lock issue.

The heavy I was referring to are the outdoor waterproof covers, but they are bulky and take up extra cargo space. I use it when I take trips.

I get it, catching them would be good but it doesn't fix the damage. Preventive if possible usually works best.

Keep in mind that it was a Tesla and may have deserved it. Just kidding. Sort of. Two points, 1) the camera didn't stop the vandalism and never will, you just get to watch it happen. 2) You probably won't catch the perp's anyway because of hats or hoodies and no positive ID. I would say a...

Nice pictures. Guessing "74-77?

You gotta pay to play, no matter the vehicle. Some just cost more than others.

Damn dude, sorry to hear that. How is your house/garage?

After setting the choke when cold, usually two pumps of the throttle, high fast idle should be about 2000 rpm or so (check spec's for your vehicle) and when the choke pull off is open and you tap the throttle again it should drop to around 1200 rpms on the fast idle cam second step. These speeds...

The choke cover is only a spring that controls how fast the choke plate will open and how hard it will shut when cold. The looser the spring tension the quicker the choke blade will open and the fast idle cam will drop to it's lower settings, and eventually has no idle speed control when fully...

If you backed off the fast idle screw 1.5 turns that is a lot and your fast idle will be much lower. Does the choke housing have a plastic cover on it with 3 screws holding it in place? If so you can adjust the spring tension to open sooner in warmer weather. We used to have to adjust choke pull...

Wise words

Always haggle, get the best price that you can.