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Okay....checked timing with computer connected....about 30 BTDC at idle....very rough idle. Disconnected computer.....timing was about 12 or BTDC. Need to recheck this. Engine idled better with computer disconnected. Pulled one spark plug wire at a time...no real difference, but with #3...

Gerry, Yes, I have good oil pressure, above 40. I had set the initial timing just as you wrote. Engine would not start. Rotated distributor as far clockwise as it would go....would not start. Rotated distributor as far counter-clockwise as it would go and engine started. Removed cap, noted...

Got engine to run....did not have time to get a timing light on it....but something is still not right, timing seems to be way off and I hear a knock...sounds like a hammer hitting inside the block...got to get a timing light on it tomorrow....I still might have a spun rod bearing(s). Have to...

The balancer has not slipped, it is fine. Put the distributor back in and set with #1 at TDC. Did notice that the oil pump shaft sure wiggles around alot.....the sleeve must have slide down or something. Anyways put the compression gauge on #7...got 130....same as I did last summer...low, but...

I do not have a stock style balancer....have one that has the tape on it already. I think it goes to 60 degrees or so. And yes I am going to put the distributor back in at the correct position and restart engine before I tear anything more apart. Well since I have the spark plugs out and...

The engine will still "run"....not very well....but it will still move the car. Unless the balancer has shifted such that I no longer have a #1 TDC reference, then timing has indeed jumped....no doubt about it. Confirmed by seeing distributor rotor between #1 and #8 when balancer indicated #1...

I was hopefull.....but pulled the distributor out and the gear is fine. Looked at the cam drive gear as well....looked fine. So timing jumped. I am going to remove the valve covers again and watch #1 valves while I rotate the engine to double check that the balancer has not slipped. After...

Just check timing....rotor is way past #1 at TDC.....looks like it jumped a tooth. So....as I have never experienced this before...still puzzled as to how a double roller could jump a tooth and the chain is not all that old / miles....anyways....where do I go from here?? Is there enough...

All the plug wires look good...nothing burned or melted. The timing set is a double roller I put in when I did the rebuild about 8k miles ago. I will check the timing by aligning the balancer mark with the distributor rotor. Distributor is about 9k miles old. The ignition module is one...

Driving down the highway on Friday....all of a sudden I hear and feel a vibration / engine knocking....rough running...whatever you want to call it. Get off highway and having trouble keeping it running....sounds like I have lost a cylinder or something. Will not idle....runs really rough. Oil...

Gerry, I have a spare complete E4ME that I put a kit into and then put on the shelf. I removed all the epoxy off the primaries...just did not like it. I have not run the carb...always meant to. Anyways I can send it to you to try if you want to. Let me know. Lanny

I have tried to determine what is binding....I know it is not the pedal bushings. I replaced the Z bar bushings long time ago and eveything is fine there. I am missing the spring(s) that go on the rod between Z bar and clutch fork...but doubt that would cause the binding. I agree not to...

I have the factory clutch rod setup; after a few minutes of driving / shifting...the clutch pedal seems to bind-up and takes a little more effort, looses some smoothness. So I was thinking it was the clutch rod binding between the Z bar and the clutch fork...but now I am wondering if the spring...

Gerry, When I first got my '81 some years ago now, I was fighting air in the brake lines. After replacing the master with no improvement I went for the calipers. On the right front I found the junction of the rubber line to steel line so chewed-up...someone had used pliers on the...

Auto trans part huh.....well that explains why I have no idea what it is then.....I have a manual trans. Thanks for answering my question.

"Accumlator piston".....saw this on ebay...have no idea what this is...but it states it is for a 1981 Corvette. Just curious as I thought I knew every part of my car.

Does the choke lite come on when starting the engine?

I put Hooker sidepipes onto my 81 which should be very close to the 80 the OP has; I had no fitment problem. My wife and I put them in about two hours; an extras set of hands is good to have, but not required. Noise level: I have the Hooker Maxflo and they are are not too bad except when...

Yes, pull the vacuum line off the intake behind the carb, plug it and see if the engine runs better. If it does, then you have lots of vacuum connections to check. Check to see if the choke plate is open all the way after a few minutes. Put a long screwdriver to the front of the carb with...

Sensei, Followed that thread of yours....still not sure though what exactly it is that you have done. I know the secondary rods can be replaced...but what else? Thanks, Lanny Forget about the above....went back and found the thread with all the things to do.