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Is it a stock shifter or aftermarket Hurst?

For a 72' bumper car if you end up putting 20K total into it, you'll still get your $$$ back when you sell it. If it was a rubber bumper car, you wouldn't. I'd say fix it right but watch your total investment. How is the birdcage?

Use the rubber ones with the steel center. You'll never have another leak, and you can use them over and over again. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2DG2301&autoview=sku

Should be the one on the windshield post. You can see it bolted on in the upper left of this photo

Did you replace the switch? Here's what it looks like (The yellowist looking one, not the one with the link.) This is from a 4 speed car.

Rear is .440" Front is 1.12" for FE7 "Gymkhana"

WOW, a 69' with only 18 miles on it!! I hope the NCRS boys are all over this one with a camera. Hard to read the trim tag but it looks like 976 which is Lemans Blue Metalic.

Mine is Mille Miglia Red paint code 973.

This should help. See the seat belt retractor and the large bolt? Thats where yours should be.

It bolts on top the wheel well. If you feel around, you'll find the threaded holes. I used the Camaro belts in my 71', but they mounted in the same holes.

I'm lucky as I can take it to work and dispose of it. I think many of the quick oil change places will take it for a small fee.

I agree, Corvette seats prior to the 78' PC style are not very comfortable IMO.

The gage will pulse with the pump. Many of the better fuel pump gages are oil filled to help dampen out the pulses.

Power Brakes use 1 1/8, manual uses 1". Sounds like the M/C is leaking at the rear seal. You need to replace or rebuild it BEFORE it destroys the booster. The photo below shows how to bench bleed. Install a couple of tubes from the outlet ports to the reservoir. Fill the reservoir with...

Did he replace all the parking brake springs inside the rear rotors or just the pads and calipers? A common failure is for the PB shoe retracting springs to break due to rust and rub on the rotor.

It's always a good idea to use thread sealant on pipe threads.

Did you get wet?

Any auto parts store will have them. It has 1/4" NPT threads (pipe threads) and look like this. http://www.zip-products.com/Zip/productr.asp?pf%5Fid=M%2D3055&gift=False&HSLB=False&mscssid=B878A0CBDC764A358F7025A7DA88126F

Drain the block as suggested. Also, replace the pipe plugs with some actual drain cocks and it will be MUCH less of a mess next time you have to drain it. Be prepared to have antifreeze running down your arm and all over the floor.