1st track - C/S to WP
2nd track - C/S to WP to PS (inside)
3rd track - WP to A.I.R to A/C - and seperately PS (outside) to ALT
Since the A.I.R is missing you would disregard A.I.R above.
Just photograph in place and replace the tank. That's the ONLY way to keep it original.
Not a bad job, but a little bit of a PITA getting it back in by yourself with gravity working against you. The mufflers are going to get in the way a bit too. You may need to drop the hangers from the...
Possibly the ignition key warning buzzer switch behind the turn signal switch. Mine had a crack in it causing the switch to be in contact all the time turning on the buzzer.
When you replaced the battery did you get a substitute battery number? If I recall, some of the so called "equivalents" don't have a very good fit and don't make good contact.
Depends on where you buy the valve. Some say it will need centered, others claim theirs are pre-centered. Adjustment is easy regardless.
I wouldn't buy an empty cardboard box from duntov.
:bash
Check out here.
When you will get the movement in the slave arm is when the p/s control valve is imbalanced, not when the system has had the p/s fluid drained from it. The adjustment on the end of the valve under the dust cap is for adjusting this balance and it is not a bleed valve. If you haven't adjusted...
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