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Please excuse me for trying to help......no malice was intended....nor did I expect to be chastized for my humble efforts.

Granted, Radio Shack will not have dealer/GM connectors, but it appeared from jet4rs' post, he wanted an alternative connector...........

Try Radio Shack -- store, or on-line catalog.........

You might check to confirm the brace was re-installed.......:Silly

There are two (2) screws centrally located betweeen the grills. Remove the screws and pull the outlet grill straight out.

Your brakes should still be under warranty. I would recommend returning to the installing shop and ask for an analysis. It is possible there is a glaze on the pads, if they weren't bedded properly.

Just a comment on rotors.....it is recommended that if the rotors are warped or scarred, they should be replaced, not turned. Removing material from the rotor just makes them thinner, and more subject to warping.

Scott, the diagnostics for the ABS/ASR are quite lengthy in the GM manual, but you can try the CCM in-vehicle method to clear ABS/ASR codes: 1. ignition "off". 2. connect a jumper from DLC terminal "A" to terminal "G". 3. ignition "on". 4. press TRIP RESET button on the DIC (driver info center)...

muddywaters, when did this problem start, and have electrical repairs been made to the headlight door motors? I would recommend obtaining a wiring diagram for the door motors and start your diagnosis there. I see no mention of relays or modules in the headlight wiring diagram in the two...

Why risk your life (and possibly others) trying to guess what the problem might be. Most brake shops provide "free" inspections. Your repairs may still be under warranty.

Larry, Sam Taylor Chev http://www.samtaylor.com/html/parts.html sells the OE opti for about $280. Dyno Tech sell the Dynaspark for about $600. If you read the link in the previous post, I think you will buy the Dynaspark. Considering the labor involved, including a new water pump replacement...

Have had success with Die Hard "Gold" ($79) over many years. The last one I replaced was in my PU for over 9 years, and still strong. The "Silver" is about $10 cheaper...good battery, shorter warranty period. Depends if you are going to keep the vette for awhile.

http://www.c4vettes.com/ecm.htm